Saturday, December 9, 2006

Bespoke Neckties

Most men may have little need for bespoke neckties. I wonder how I got along without them. Like anything else that's made for you, a bespoke necktie gives you exactly what you ask for, such as a lined and self-tipped sixfold with a self-keeper, 3 1/2" wide and 55" long, cut to tie a moderate four-in-hand that fits into the tie space on a tab collar dress shirt.

Once it is tied, the widest point on the necktie should intersect the top of your trousers, and the tip should fall at the bottom of your waistband. RTW ties are too long for me because my trousers are cut two inches higher than most men's. Short men who tie small knots and tall men who tie large ones will also have a difficult time with standard length ties. Necktie individualists like Prince Michael of Kent, who favors very large knots, are even less likely to find what they like hanging on the racks at the local haberdashery.

There are many sources for bespoke neckties and well known suppliers include Turnbull & Asser and Bowring & Arundel in London. Currently I am working most often with Charvet in Paris and Sam Hober in Denver.

But for one problem Charvet would be my choice as the premier necktie source in the world, because the variety of silk they offer is, in my opinion, unmatched. The service is friendly and prompt, the price only a bit above their RTW prices and they promptly and competently make what you request. The difficulty is identifying what you want to order without travelling to view the silks in their store on the place Vendome in Paris. They do not yet have a web site.

Simlar to my experience with Charvet, I can find only one thing to complain about regarding David and Noina Hober at Sam Hober in Denver, and that is that they have been making neckties of English silk for a relatively short time and have "only" perhaps 300 from which to choose.


Today brought a package from them with three more neckties, two of them Atkinson's Irish poplin (one of them the Argyle & Sutherland stripes which is one of the great pairings with a navy blazer), as well as two pocket squares made from printed silk. The other necktie pictured is a burgundy grenadine, and therein lies the tale of why I expect the Hobers will become as succssful as they want to in the necktie business.

Six months ago, I emailed David with a request for a couple grenadine necktie colors, which he didn't offer at the time. He asked a couple of questions, verified with other customers that there would be demand for them, and two months later presented his customers with a choice of several dozen colors. He was equally responsive to requests for Atkinson's Irish poplin.


Whether the item in question has been tailored clothing, shoes, shirts or items with as few variables as neckties or braces, bespoke clothing is a rewarding experience, often in completely unexpected ways. Reward yourself this holiday season with a necktie built just for you.

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