Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Consider the Black Suit

Consider the black suit. By this, I do not mean the Men's Warehouse "Since you'll only have one suit it should be black so you can wear it to a funeral" suit. Nor do I recommend the City of London black worsted with white pinstripes. But a black suit (similar in style to but hopefully better made than the three button version from Brooks Brothers to the left) has a place in your wardrobe if you're young, urban and plan to spend some of your nights clubbing in less formal places like LA or South Beach.

Know that a black suit worn during the day has been controversial and ideally to be avoided since the lounge/business suit replaced earlier forms of day wear. Charcoal and navy blue are preferred. The place for black is at night.

Night is when people go to urban clubs to see and be seen. And while a man in traditional dinner kit would look out of place, Hollywood has given us an alternative in the black or midnight blue suit, stripped of most of its frills and worn in place of black tie for evening.

Stripped means that the jacket and trousers should not have the silk trimmings of a dinner jacket and trousers. The jacket should preferably be one button with a peak lapel, but could be two or three button and notch lapel. Preferably without flaps on the side pockets and either no side vents or two of them. A sheen of mohair in the cloth adds to the evening look, as do cloth covered buttons.

Wear it with highly polished plain black oxfords and a silver silk tee shirt or polo in summer or a cashmere mock turtleneck in winter. A pocket square shows savoir faire. If you can't stand the thought of going out without a necktie, wear a plain white dress shirt with french cuffs and a Macclesfield or satin four-in-hand necktie. Avoid Clooney style, with an open neck. It just looks sloppy having your collar flapping around and all.

I'd rather you wore something else during the day, but if you can't get home to change for the evening, a black suit can work for you from morning to night. Bring some cologne and a night-time top or shirt and necktie in your briefcase so you can transform yourself quickly at the office. It's not cool to wear exactly the same clothes that you wore all day.

Once the sun sets the black suit is in its element.

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