Edward Green Top Drawer

Hilary Freeman (the lady in the photo), Managing Director of shoemaker Edward Green, is currently on a trunk show tour of America. She has a sample of the new Top Drawer model with her and I was able to examine it last week.

Top Drawer models feature a hand shaped fiddleback waist, the buyer's initials on the sole by the heel, a built-up not-quite-Cuban style heel, a spade shaped sole edge, and a handwritten sock with the buyer's name. They receive special attention during polishing and are shipped with specially shaped shoe trees. At least on the sample I saw, the stitching around the sole is very well done.

Top Drawer orders are clicked and closed like regular Edward Green shoes and then lasted by a team of four craftsman who each specialize in one part of the shoe. The result looks every bit as good as my bespoke Cleverleys.

The pricing, which in the United States will be roughly $1600 through EG distribution and $1900 through Polo, is comparable to John Lobb Prestige. That's a stiff premium over Gaziano & Girling's ready to wear, however I believe the G&Gs will go up rapidly in price once they are actually delivering shoes. Top Drawer shoes are finished better than Lobb Prestige, though Lobb's models are exclusive to the Prestige line. That's an advantage on the Lobb side of the fence.

Japan is EG's most important market and the price is likely to find less resistance there than it will in the U.S. Further, Hilary told me that if you have an Edward Green bespoke last made while Tony Gaziano was working there, EG will make your Top Drawer shoes on that last. She said the same to two friends that went to see her separately.

There are several hundred men for whom that offer will be an outstanding bargain. 80% or better of a fully bespoke shoe at half the price.