Thursday, March 22, 2007

Maintenance: Wool, Wrinkles and Steam

It takes constant vigilance to keep tailored clothing looking as good as that worn by the late John Russell, the 13th Duke of Bedford and one of the best dressed men of the twentieth century in the opinion of Vanity Fair magazine.


With proper care the natural qualities of wool clothing can be maintained for years. Wool garments should ideally only be dry-cleaned at the end of each season, preferably immediately before storage to remove any dirt that might be attractive to moths. Avoidance of dry cleaning (the chemicals are not wool friendly and accelerate ageing) requires other kinds of care before and after wear.

Once a wool garment is worn, it should be stored on a shaped or padded hanger to rest for at least 24 hours (for worsteds; flannels and tweeds should rest for at least two days). Give it a good brushing, empty the pockets, remove belts and hang with closures zipped or buttoned. Many wrinkles that developed during the wear will fall out of their own accord overnight.

Before wearing the garment the next time, remove remaining wrinkles, and any new ones that developed during storage, with a steamer. Steam relaxes the fibers and, unlike ironing, will not scorch them.

Founded in 1940, Jiffy Steamer is the oldest U.S. manufacturer of steaming equipment for wrinkle removal. According to the company, Jiffy manufactures over 16 fabric steamers and clothes steamer models.

The Jiffy J-2000M Steamer ($189 from the company) is the model the company recommends for home use on clothing. I have one at home and it wipes wrinkles away quickly and easily with a continuous flow of steam. I also pack Jiffy's Esteam travel steamer ($69 from the company) when I'm going on the road. It weighs a few pounds but is much more effective than the irons found in even the best hotels. Turning on the shower in order to fill the bathroom with steam has never successfully removed clothing wrinkles for me and frankly it bothers me to use so much water for so little reward.

2 comments:

nimbus said...

How do you maintain a sharp crease in your trousers between wearings? I don't think you can press pants with a steam iron alone, no?

Will said...

Wool trousers will usually hold a crease between semi-annual dry cleanings.

They tend to wrinkle behind the knee (that's what a trouser press handles best), and on the thighs. A steamer takes care of the latter.

The only exception in my experience are trousers that are blended with cashmere. Mine barely hold a crease for two wearings and I have to have them pressed by a tailor (too much risk of scorching to try it myself). I won't be buying more of those.

 
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