Lifestyle: Summer's Tipple

Inexpensive Portuguese imports gave rosé wines a bad name when I was a young man. That's a good thing if the lingering vestige of that reputation holds down demand for summer's best tipple - rosé champagne.

Rosé Champagne is a veritable baby among wines, having only been around since the 1960's. The good stuff is made by the saignée method, where the must, or juice, is left in contact with the skins of Pinot Noir grapes for several hours during the initial fermentation process in order to allow the color to develop. The methode Champenoise is followed thereafter.

I can't take Louis Roederer Cristal or Dom Pérignon Rosé lightly enough to quaff them liberally at $200 and up a bottle. Still expensive but considerably more affordable is Veuve Clicquot Brut Rosé ($50). It's dry and full bodied, with red fruit and citrus flavors and a creamy-yeasty finish.

Also worth considering is the best selling rosé in the world, Laurent-Perrier NV Brut Rosé ($75). It's bright and fresh, with notes of strawberries, raspberries and black cherries.

Finally, for a special occasion, you owe it to yourself to taste Nicolas Feuillatte's 1999 Rosé. A bit less than $200 when you can find it and for at least one fleeting moment you'll think about selling your portfolio to buy up all you can lay your hands on.