A walk around London's St. James is one of the few occasions that a man can see more than an occasional well dressed contemporary on the streets around him. That's because, along with the neighboring Savile Row area of Mayfair, St. James is still the home of the greatest concentration of clothing craftsmen (and clothing customers) in the world.
The best known shopping area, Jermyn Street, has always been principally about shirts, but that seems to be changing lately. Most of the shirtmakers, except for Turnbull, New & Lingwood and Budd (all 10' by 10' of it), look rather down at the heels. Even Turnbull's windows were dominated by tacky signs offering end of run neckties for £10 ($20). 
It's the shoemakers that look to have all the momentum on the street. RTW makers John Lobb, Edward Green, Trickers, and Foster look relatively healthy, perhaps because quality shoes are more important than ever when a man's dress is simplified.
Around the corner and down a block stands Lobb, which metaphorically towers over the other shoemakers. Lobb is exclusively bespoke, of course, and the company's history and reputation give it the market power to set the rates paid to the small community of outworkers used by all the bespoke makers. Quite an achievement for a company offering less than elegant lasts and a fitting process that is more hit and miss than some of the others.
And after you've bought your shoes, there are few finer ways to break them in than a walk about St. James. Check out the dotted silk neckerchiefs at New & Lingwood (in the counter by the register) for £75 ($150).
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4 comments:
Very nice photos. Thanks. Makes me want to hop on a plane right now and go over there.
Is that Hacket to the right? I just bought his book on-line, Mr. Classic. Am still awaiting its arrival. Tom Davis of Brooks Brotehrs is in the book. I hate Brooks Brothers but Tom always looks great. Sometimes I walk into Brooks on Madison/44th Street on my lunch break just to see what Tom is wearing. You would think that some of the other employees would be inspired by the way Tom looks but it never looks to be the case.
As this is my first post, this is a test to view whether it appears or not.
John -- Davis and I have known each other since we were pups.
John, yes, that is Hackett in the right of the photo. I really like their stuff - but I'm not so sure about the book. I'd be fascinated to hear what you think of it.
Will, I completely agree with you on Jermyn St going downhill. Working in Mayfair I'm often in St. James's and can appreciate your viewpoint. However, I think that the competition is so tough now, that they have to have those tacky signs. I remember TM Lewin when it had the widest range of club ties on the planet and an old ledger in which they used to write your dimensions - but if they hadn't gone for the "eternal sale" look, I could imagine them being out of business now. It's always humming in there now (used to be as dead as a doornail) and I think their shirts are excellent value for money (although perhaps cut a little slim for those like me with a bit of middle-aged spread!).
Lewin could have gone the way of Hilditch & Key (pretty dowdy & empty) or Thomas Pink (pretty funky & empty). I suspect New & Lingwood hang on to Eton coat tails (& stiff collars) by way of survival (it doesn't help when you buy a tie from them to only discover that you've been overcharged by a tenner in comparison with their website).
As to Turnbull & Asser, they're too old for my taste. Just suppose I'll have go back to Hackett then...
Turnbull may be too old for some but Hackett is too young for me. Looks like good value though, and I approve of their design approach. Rather a more authentic Ralph Lauren in several senses of the thought.
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