At one point during the 1930's it was said that to be considered "best dressed" a man had to be able to wear the loudest of checked suits without attracting attention. Men that could do so had mastered the art of the blend, combining elements of dress so that none of them stood out from the overall image.
For example, the late Duke of Windsor was able to wear tweed suits with very strong patterns, patterns that would be flashy on other men, and look well dressed at the same time. He was expert at blending.
The secret to the blend is that each element in an ensemble should relate to the other. The first illustration is a combination of the sort favored by the Duke, a black and white plaid suit with a red overcheck. The shirt has a gray body with a white collar, picking up two of the suit's tones, and the necktie's red ground picks up the overcheck. The combination works to reduce the strength of the suit's pattern.
In the second illustration, our man's black lord's hat and shoes relate to the black in his suit. He is wearing an odd vest that picks up the brown in his suit's overcheck. His shirt collar is the same as the white in the suit's weave, and the shirt body is similar in tone to the waistcoat. The look is subdued though the suit is anything but.
These are more extreme examples than may be appropriate in many work places but they are intended to make a point. You may not have a checked suit but you can still see the effect of blending for yourself.
The next time you're shopping for a suit, take out a navy solid and place it next to a white shirt and a maroon necktie. Then lay down a blue flannel with a white chalk stripe, a blue end on end shirt and a maroon necktie with white dots. The combination of the flannel's texture and the white in the suit, the shirt, and the necktie work together to create an effect that's considerably more sophisticated than that of the three solids.
Buy the flannel.
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
More on Blended Dressing
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8 comments:
Very informative, Will. I would like to wear more checked suits. I recently bought two charcoal flannel suits by Southwick to augment my winter rotation. One of the suits is a subtle windowpane pattern incorporating burgundy, hunter green, and light blue. The blue stands out, but the overall effect is quite muted. You have mentioned the Duke of Windsor. What reference works have you found that touch on his style in detail?
Will,
I have found this post as well as the previous other entitled " Restraint" really superb as they explicate, by means of a detailed analysis of paradigmatic images , the way to discover the true secrets of masculine elegance.
Very well done!
Thanks a lot
Angelo
Great post Will. I love the practical technical suggestions like that!!
Most of what I've learned about the Duke of Windsor has come in bits, pieces and old photos. I have half a dozen books on his life and style. His autobiography, A King's Story, devotes half its space to his clothes, and is as good a reference as comes to mind.
A fine post, thanks. And I'm very jealous of your collection of Fellowes illustrations.
Regards,
Chris
great post. thanks
Thank you for this post. I do very much like pattern mixing when done well. Recently I have been watching the movies coming out of Asia / Hong Kong and I have to say that in China and Japan, among others, the mixing of patterns in the various layers of traditional costume are really gorgeous. I keep hoping to find a contmporary western equivalient that does not look like a nineteenth century flaneur's costume or the modern day self declared dandy's in overly bright costumes.
One thing to remember about the Duke of Windsor was his stature. The effect would have been different if he had been over 6 feet tall and 260 lbs. Another is that the Duke, if he had worked a regular office job, would have chosen more restrained combinations. This is in no way intended to disparage the Duke of Windsor.
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