Sunday, September 30, 2007

Reader Questions


From Seth
"I'm a long-time fan of your blog, but this is my first time writing you. I am in Glasgow, Scotland for the next month, so I was wondering if you might suggest some good shopping spots while I'm here. I'd be interested in traditional things such as tweeds, sweaters, wellies, etc."

I'm not too knowledgeable about shopping in Glasgow itself but there's some great architecture. The photo is of Pollok House.

If you have access to a car, drive up to Golspie in the North (between Brora and Dornoch) and visit North Highland Tweed Co. which is selling what's left of the tweed stock of Hunters of Brora at great prices. No web site but the telephone was 01408 633294 or 01863 766908 last I knew. Highly recommended for cloth.

Also North is Johnston's of Elgin, the largest cashmere weaver. They have a factory store.

Finally, Begg Cashmere is in Ayr, not far southwest. I don't know if they have a factory store as I've not been there. If they do, it would be well worth a trip if only to see the paisley cashmere scarves. Expensive but gorgeous.

Finally, you can get respectable shetland prices direct from Spirit of Shetland without leaving your computer.


From Nicolaus
"I'm writing about arm holes in bespoke clothing. There's much ado about "high arm holes" on jackets in some of the forums I frequent. I wanted to know what is your opinion on the matter? Do high arm holes make wearing a jacket more comfortable and allow for more freedom of movement?"

Arm holes are a measure of precision tailoring. Larger armholes are easier on the tailor - Anderson & Sheppard famously went to larger armholes some years ago to make it easier to send jobs to the firm's outworkers - and it's hoped the customers won't notice.

High armholes are important however as they help the jacket ride the shoulders without the collar coming off the back of the neck.

2 comments:

Concordia said...

Will-- when did this change at A&S? It's been my experience that their armholes are not at all low, even if the first DB suit I got 10 years ago cuts perhaps a little harder into the flesh than the current model. Was it perhaps a temporary experiment?

Will said...

I didn't say that the holes are sloppy now, only that they are larger than they were a decade ago. It's also supposed to be how the firm's button point got to be so low - their formula measured the button point from the bottom of the armhole and when they made the armhole half an inch lower they forgot to adjust the button point.

I was told the story from a man who used to cut there and Michael Alden wrote about it on the London Lounge about a year ago (though he may have heard the story separately from the same guy).