Monday, October 8, 2007

Final Adjustments


Tailor Thomas Mahon was in San Francisco a few days ago and that provided the opportunity to get what should be final adjustments to my first Mahon suit, an effort that we began a year ago. It was fitted for the first time this past Spring.

The suit is a half lined summer weight (ten ounce) mohair and wool blend cut as a 6x2 double breasted. There is a slight sheen to the mohair so I'll wear it on days when I might want to look a bit dressier than normal, and in the evening.


The suit had cleared customs a few days prior which gave me time to wear it for a day to see how it settled. It looked pretty darned good for a first effort with only one previous fitting.


Of course there were some nits. The trousers were a bit tight in the thighs when I sat, which Thomas picked up on before a word left my mouth, the coat needed a bit of shape and the jacket sleeve length was a bit off. I also asked for an eyeglass pocket in the jacket and an English back to the trousers instead of a straight waistband so the trousers will ride like my other suits and won't require me to adjust my braces each time I put it on.


If someone looks closely they may notice the turnback cuffs on the sleeves (click on the photo to see it full size), a subtle Edwardian touch. I think they add a little interest to an otherwise conservative double breasted. The jacket might have been a bit bolder if the lining was the paisley I'd requested, but it arrived navy blue and I elected not to make an issue of it. I've never received a bespoke suit that was exactly what I asked for, so why start now?

All that means this mission is mostly accomplished. In a couple of weeks I'll have a suit that I won't be able to wear until the end of March '08. I'd like to get delivery and season synchronized next time, so I'm planning to order a fresco next. With luck, both the suit and the appropriate season for it will arrive in the Spring.

10 comments:

Nungesser said...

Will - two questions for you:

1. Would you elaborate on precisely what is an English back on a pair of trousers? Is that like a fishtail?

2. Do you usually place the buttons for your braces on the outside of your waistband insetad of the inside?

Will said...

Yes, an English back is a fishtail.

The outside button placement is a bit more comfortable and I have it that way on a couple of my more recent suits. It may not be the best choice for men who remove their jackets in public.

Hank said...

I think the turnback cuffs are an inspired idea.

Have you tried side tabs on your trousers, and if so what do you think?

Will said...

I have a rear adjustor on some of my suits, but none at all on most of them.

Side adjustors are for straight waistband trousers, not for fishtails.

Trousers for braces really don't need adjustors, which are only useful to tighten the waist. And that's the opposite of the usual problem. The waist should be an inch larger than the belted waist.

Graham said...

Dear Sir. Thank you for sharing your descriptions and images with us. i for one would like to see the rear of the trousers so that the Fishtail back can be seen. So good to see someone choosing all the traditional details for a new suit. Well done.

Will said...

Look at http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2007/06/some-trouser-details.html

Graham said...

Although the link doesn't seem to work

Will said...

It's an address, not a link.

Graham said...

The address has a page not found error.. seems to be something missing from the end of the ADDRESS

Will said...

I just tried it. Worked fine. Try the search function if you're having trouble - the post name is Some Trouser Details.

 
Blog Widget by LinkWithin