How Many Folds?

I love neckties, particularly solids and simple stripes like these from the atelier of Anna Matuozzo. But not all ties are created equal.

Most neckties are what are called lined three folds, where the silk is folded on each side around the lining. Instead of a lining, seven folds have more folds of silk to add bulk to the tie. The technique uses a lot more expensive silk, which is much of the reason why the style costs about twice as much as a quality three fold. The result is beautiful to hold, but the resulting tie is light, with a tendency to wrinkle at the knot and twist when it's worn. I like the construction for cashmere or wool ties, where the additional weight of the material makes a tie that drapes acceptably. I don't like it for silk.

In my opinion, the best construction is a lined six fold, where the silk is folded twice on each side over the lining. I like it because the additional weight makes the tie hang straighter. As I walk, the tie maintains its dignity, moving with more grace than either a three or a seven fold.