I had to smile at GQ's "Everything You Need to Know About Black Tie" in the December issue, which I picked up because the cover promised early photos of Sienna Miller and Jessica Biel (hence the above illustration of a 1927 painting by Christian Schad which I think ties the two topics together, don't you?).
Anyway, back to GQ's story, which was apparently edited by the stylist that dresses Tom Cruise. I first raised an eyebrow at the statement that a cummerbund makes the wearer look like he's headed to the prom. That was followed by an admonition to lose the patent shoes and wear black bluchers instead (they don't actually specify bluchers but the illustration shows a pair). And we're told it's OK to substitute a black suit for a DJ altogether. Finally, they advise blucher-wearing guys everywhere that they should don a chesterfield overcoat with a black velvet collar. As if they're likely to have one of those hanging next to their black suits.
I doubt it was coincidental that less than a week after reading the piece two different readers emailed me asking where they could buy a chesterfield. Now I think every suit-wearing man should own a chesterfield but I fervently hope neither of them was planning to buy one to wear with a black suit and bluchers.
Posts
13 comments:
Not having seen the article in question, I have nonetheless been wondering about alternatives to patent shoes. Black bluchers hadn't crossed my mind, but I'm curious if there is something else that is acceptable. As I'm in the process of trying to thrift/ebay/find my first black tie outfit, I've been thinking about shoes. With my feet, I'm resigned to buying these at full price, but I just loathe patent leather.
You should check out what they have up on men.style.com (as you probably know, the home online home of GQ). Their feature, The Upgrader, goes further in to deconstructing black tie (some of the stuff is nice, but should not replace the tux).
There is no question GQ has lost its way. In trying to compete with the silly magazines (Maxim, etc.) and the yougner fashion rags (Details, etc.) they (the fools who assumed Art Cooper's role) have squandered what had become, during the late '90's and early '00s, a great luxe magazine.
In fact, to emphasize this conclusion, one need look no further than the two new Conde Naste titles, Portfolio and Men's Vogue, to see what had previously been within the purview of GQ...
Sad.
Today's topic at GQ is "why to bag the traditional tux." Why the hate? I have also allowed my GQ subscription to lapse. Classic Men's Style magazine came along at just the right time to offer replacement. I do agree with jon mejdrich in that the magazine has lost its way. Look at the "30 days of style" just offered. One day, and I'm not kidding, was devoted to how to lace one's shoes. I gave it to my son. He's 5.
What sort of overcoat should one wear with black tie?
Shameek, a dark gray chesterfield is best. A polo coat can work but it's riskier.
The article and slides on men.style.com, suggests replacing the tuxedo with a black suit and no tie. This is foolishly illustrated with Hollywood know-nothings in their hideous black suits. The effect is nausea inducing.
While some of the suits look nice enough, I wouldn't replace the tux with these idiotic suggestions. The editors at GQ are pandering to the lowest denominator.
EdHillPR
I sympathise. I like looking at pictures of Sienna Miller and Jessica Biel just as much as the next guy. But, a magazine focused on these 'topics' hardly can be trusted to offer sensible sartorial advice, can it? GQ seems devoted to cultivating an AmJack readership.
I agree, there has been a drastic lowering of standards in men's media, just as in the culture as a whole. I admit, I like Classic Men's Style and Men's Vogue. The MV website is a favourite.
BTW, the woman behind the Count's left shoulder looks rather mannish, wouldn't you agree?
Long readers of the magazine will recall that they run a regular feature entitled "GQ Regrets: Our Lapses in Judgement."
Perhaps the editors should begin a column entitled "GQ Rejoices: The Day We Got It Right" to cover those rare moments that they offer sound advice. Fashion is fickle. And sex sells magazines.
Keep fighting the good fight Will.
That portrait of Schad's is well-known for having a then-famed transvestite at the Count's right shoulder.
She/he was a well-known performer at the Weimar Berlin nightspot, El Dorado, and was a lover of the Count as was the other (biological) woman.
It seems odd that GQ should be writing articles like that...I like DJ's and I don't see what problem they have with patent leather shoes...is it just a dumbing down of a smart outfit for no good reason?
I noticed that after admonishing readers to drop patent leathers a model on the following page wore what appeared to my eye to be patent leather shoes.
Alas, I agree with Mr. Mejdrich. I adored GQ when Art Cooper was Editor. Now it has become a bit of a joke.
GQ is a rag. I now get my style cues from visiting fine men's stores in NYC and logging onto A Suitable Wardrobe. Keep up the good work, Will.
Post a Comment