I've always wondered how it came to be that the English close their shirt cuffs with cufflinks while the Italians and most of the Americans use buttons.
Curiosity aside, I like the informality of buttons with odd jackets and weekend suits and the dressed-up look of cufflinks with a city suit. The only knock on links is that they cost more than shirt buttons, but that shouldn't be too much of an obstacle. One good pair is all that's required for every day wear. After all, no-one notices if we wear white plastic buttons on our shirt cuffs every day.
If a man has but one pair, I think it should be gold and double-sided, with the two sides joined by a small chain. I've seen antique 14kt machine-turned versions on eBay for about $100 a pair. Of course, when money is no object, a pair that's hand engraved with your initials and family crest, like the links from the English jeweler Armour Winston in the photo, can be had for a considerably larger sum.
Another reason some men have avoided double-sided links is because they are perceived as more dificult to don than either buttons or the modern type of single sided link with a swivel on the other side. That's not true, of course. Links go into the cuffs before a man dons his shirt. The opening of a linked cuff is just large enough for a hand. Nothing could be simpler.
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Nice post, Will. I inherited about 40 pairs of links from my father, grandfather, and further on down the line. I enjoy wearing them every chance I get and follow your advice of sticking to wearing them with a suit rather then the odd jacket. I hope to add to the collection and then hand them to my son to keep the flow going. Kids now-a-days won't wear them, you say? My son, who's 5, asked for a tie for Christmas, then was quite upset that it was a clip-on. Needless to say, I rectified that quickly. I do believe he will wear and enjoy them, as well.
As a last note, I put my links on after putting on my shirt and don't have an issue with applying the cuffs with one hand. As with anything, practice makes perfect.
Shouldn't the cuff be small enough not to slip over your hand? So that when you're standing, the sleeve doesn't slip down too far?
Good Afternoon! Just wondering if cufflinks should be silver or gold OR work with a color in your shirt, tie or suit? Also my DH asks: Are double-breasted suits still in fashion? And my question: we adore old movies and wonder if anyone wears a white dinner jacket anymore? Many many thanks for your wonderful information, pictures and stories!
Jan at Rosemary Cottage
Joshski, a cuff is sized so that it is big enough to let your hand through but not so big that it doesn't rest easily at the bottom of the hand.
Teacats, double breasted suits are always in style (fashion is for ladies). And men do wear white dinner jackets in summer but opportunities to do so tend to be limited to cruises and country club dances. Finally, links can be any color that doesn't blatantly conflict.
You're reading my mind, Will. I was just shopping at a local antique store (to no avail) for a good pair of gold links. I'll follow your link to see how considerably more the new ones will run me...
eBay is a great resource for cufflinks - especially if you're looking for estate or vintage pieces.
But one of my favorite sets of cufflinks of all time is from Ben Silver (have you covered Ben Silver before, Will?). The links are double-sided ovals that consist of the 4 vices: horses, cards, drink, and women. Highly recommended.
Will: niggling Heraldry point--the English don't have "family crests".
Scott,
You were wearing nice cufflinks the night of the cocktail party - the gold ovals with your initials. Very nice.
I have noticed over the years that women always comment on links. They love bling.
Hello Will,
Great post, I really enjoy reading ASW. Just a point on links, I have fairly big hands and like Turling, I have to put my links in after putting on my shirt. Double cuff shirts are my signature piece of apparel, in fact I hardly own any barrel cuff shirts. Practice does make perfect with doing this, and is no harder than buttoning turnback cuffs.
I have an old pair of black tie links with a chain, however the reverse side is more of a gold elipse rather than an oval (i.e. a lot smaller that the outside facing end). Very easy to put on!
Cheers,
Peter
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