On the list of mortal sartorial sins the unsightly flash of bare leg between trouser bottom and socks is always near the top. Belt buckle bulge under a vest is high on the list as well, along with matching necktie and pocket square sets. But what of the smaller sins? This essay begins an occasional series on venial, or forgivable, transgressions.
One sin that I've never understood is the practice of leaving one or even two of one's jacket sleeve buttons unbuttoned in order to show the world that they really work. Of course, this has the opposite effect. Men who see those sloppy sleeves justifiably wonder whether the wearer has a closet full of jackets with buttons that are just sewn on.
When struck by the urge to undo a jacket sleeve button, walk quickly to a large public men's room. Unbutton and roll up your sleeves and wash your hands. Then dry your hands and button the sleeves again. You'll demonstrate that your sleeve buttons work to many men without embarrassing yourself and after a few repetitions the urges will cease.
Friday, January 25, 2008
One Venial Sin
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20 comments:
Add to your list of venial sins saying "affect" when one means "effect", and vice-versa. ;-)
Good catch, thanks. Fixed now.
When I buy a ready-made suit, I have the tailor make the non-working buttons into working buttons. But I always leave them buttoned. I just want to know for myself that they are working buttons.
It is quite annoying to see buttons unbuttoned. It's almost like the wearer is trying to convey a message much like the logos and advertisements one finds on clothing these days.
Thanks for the post Will.
Will,
I agree with the first two "sins", but I don't know about the buttons. I admit, it is showing off to leave a couple buttons unbuttoned, but several classically stylish men have been photographed doing just that. Alan Flusser's: Dressing The Man is full of photos displaying an unbuttoned cuff. I think this one is up for debate. Anyway, I really enjoy your blog.
I wouldn't mind if this kind of thing continued. It lets me know right away whether I'm dealing with someone who has class or simply has money.
Will, somehow, you are correct. Leaving a sleeve button unbuttoned is an act of "showing off" and, thus, might be considered a sin. However, this transgression is committed by people which you actually did or probably would label as "style icons". See here:
http://www.claudiocaprara.it/
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http://www.contrasto.it/img/
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This is probably the reason why you classified this "sin" as being venial.
It might depend on what kind of man your are - rather conservative or more flashy - and what social environment you keep company with.
To me, dressing in a fashionable way - be it a classic or sophisticated, more fancy style - is showing off anyway, because people usually take notice of it due to the das fact that proper clothing somehow has gone out of style for the majority...
For example: Would you consider wearing red socks a sin? Most people will find that weird and it might be considered "showing off". However, it is an element of classical style.
My salesman at Neimans actually recommended that I do this. Nevertheless, I still like him. Simply stated, leaving a button open looks messy. It's also just too obvious. You do not want to be seen as a bounder.
I would agree with you, Will, on this particular venial sin. I think the reason being is that leaving it unbuttoned, to me, would not be an act of absent-mindedness, but one of deliberateness. While I can see leaving the second button on a shirt sleeve unbuttoned (however, I am not pardoning the misdeed) as a sign of forgetfulness, leaving the coat sleeve unbuttoned would be simply an act of vanity. And, I think it just looks sloppy to boot.
Benjamin, in my vocabulary red socks mean style.
What about leaving vest buttons unbuttoned? I always thought you were supposed to do that, so it bothers me when I see somebody button the vest all the way down.
Similarly for 2-button or 3-button suit coats. Aren't you supposed to leave the bottom button undone? I think it looks funny when they are all buttoned up.
Honestly, I don't think leaving a cuff button undone is a big deal. It's very minor, as Will says. It' not even a sin. Actually I find it an interesting detail. It's not as bad as, say, wearing personalised gold cufflinks, which I find too flashy and vulgar.
Have to disagree with this one.
When done correctly with a well made suit, I dont think that the effect is sloppy at all. If opening one button makes your sleeve flap wildly, then the problem is the sleeve.
admittedly, leaving the one button open flaunts the detail a little. But that is part of what fashion is about, pulling together both visible and invisible details to make a statement about who one is.
I see this as much more about individual choice. Absent putting your sleeve in everyone's face and exclaiming "look, they work!", I cant agree with this being a sin.
will, i agree with you about the red socks. i´m just saying that many people might think of it as showing of or being flashy.
in a nuthshell, brentstarsks is aying what I was trying to get across:
"But that is part of what fashion is about, pulling together both visible and invisible details to make a statement about who one is."
Will,
Nice article, I enjoyed it tremendously.
As a sartorial neophyte, I would commit such an infraction, but today I exercise more restraint – learning process I guess.
Functional coat cuffs are a valuable utility for various specialists, however. For instance, elegantly dressed Maestros and MDs can efficiently perform their tasks with a quick maneuver of the cuff and a subtle sleeve roll.
Hadn’t thought of using a visit to the lavatory to justify unbuttoning my cuffs? Now that’s pretty smooth.
Chicken and the egg.
If you are a man of estimable style... have at it. Watch outside of cuff, collar over a sweater, etc.
But until you *know* that you are that man, don't wear your sleeve buttons un-buttoned.
But where do you begin? :)
It would seem to me that in today's world wearing anything other than jeans and a t-shirt is considered to be showing off and being what used to be called properly dressed is now considered to be over-dressed. Leaving a working button unbuttoned is far down at the bottom of the list of venial sins in my book.
To me, Thom Browne giving out instructions with his suits to do this says it all.
That said, I inherited a Gieves and Hawkes suit and grand-dad's arms were a tad short than mine. My tailor won't lenghten them but it's only really noticable when I extend my arm, in which case I've found that leaving a button undone keeps my shirt-cuff from getting caught on the coat sleeve.
However, as far as I know, those that have noticed have pointed out that they think I am missing a button.
While I think its a venial sin as being show-offy, I deplore more how many men in the professions and business don't seem to have any idea that sleeve buttons ever were intended to be functional.
As a bit of very subtle showing off of my own, my suits made by Henry Poole only have the 2 buttons (of 4) closest to the cuff which work. This was explained to me that HP clients did not have to turn up sleeves while in the office (to keep inkstains off) but only needed to have an opening to slip a handkerchief into.
I unbutton one button whenever I wear a wristwatch, so it would not push against my shirt cuff or jacket too much.
I also like how leaving button open changes the geomtry of the sleeve. It gives sleeves more artistic look (especially on wool jackets) and indicates that I am a free person and not one of the officce soldiers under dress code.
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