UPS delivered a belated birthday present last week, a pair of Edward Green Buckinghams on the 101 last, in chestnut antique and some ecru not-quite-what-I-asked-for shade of suede.
Even though EG may be the only shoe maker on the planet that can't source white or pearl reversed buck, calf, goat or other suitable skin, I like the shoes. They are the same model that the late Duke of Windsor wore (he had at least two pair in black and white) and I'm looking forward to wearing mine in the summer.
But if I sound the slightest bit jaundiced about the color of the suede, know that this is the second time EG has accepted a spectator order from me and shipped shoes with different suede than the swatch I ordered, without saying a word. I think of it as their Made To Outrage program, a subset of the made to order service that affects nearly half of the shoes I've purchased from them these past three years. Isn't that an amazing proportion?
Anyway, as I wrote, I like the shoes. Their insouciance will work well with linen suits as well as all my summer odd jackets.





13 comments:
Only you could get away with calling shoes insouciant, Will. ;-)
I have a pair of spectators that have a unique cloth for the uppers instead of suede - it looks and feels like a linen corduroy, if you can imagine such a thing. Those shoes always get wonderful compliments and they're a spiffy alternative to the staid and dependable white bucks.
Mr. Monty - I have never seen you look anything less than spiffy. I'd like to see pics of your specs sometime.
Will, Happy Belated Birthday. Your new shoes are fantastic. I like the material the color and the solid strip across the top. If ever I were to buy a pair of specs they'd be a slip-on version like these. (I thought seriously about buying a lace-up version from Crockett & Jones but have since abandoned that idea)
In going through the old Apparel Arts magazines, Specs were abundant in the 1930s. I like how the artist paired brown/white ones with a brown and white striped sock or the solid white buck with red sole with red and white striped socks.
I just bought a pair of solid white bucks w/ red sole for this Summer and will be on the look-out for a red and white striped sock.
Thanks for this great post.
Very nice shoes, Will. After reading positive comments here and on other forums, I feel strangely drawn to spectators. I imagine they would be very appropriate for the Southern California climate and lifestyle. I have actually seen a couple of local gentlemen wearing them. However, they seem very American and Jazz Age to me. Can someone point me to pics of the Duke of Windsor wearing them? That would be a clincher, I suspect.
Laguna, if you buy Alan Flusser's pictorial books you will find some pictures of the Duke wearing them with seersucker pants. I don't have the book in front of me at the moment but I believe he's wearing striped socks too. A lot of visually pleasing two-tone going on.
I believe I've seen the shoes in the 1997 Sotheby's catalogue that auctioned off his clothes. But I'd have t check that again.
Thanks, John. I like the brown and white spectators. I think I would prefer a slip-on version. My next question was going to be, can one wear them with seersucker? I am actually in the market for a seersucker suit, preferably a dartless version. I am think of having one made with a colourful lining.
I wouldn't wear slip-ons with seersucker but I'm a tad more conservative than most. Don't know why you couldn't.
In adition to John's sources, there's a photo of the DOW wearing his slipon specs at http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2007/07/quotation-boulevardier.html
I'll double-check the picture but my recollection is that the Duke had a relaxed look going on of seersucker pants, spectator slip-ons, striped socks and a short sleeve check shirt - the thing that struck me about the picture was every article of clothing was two-tone and the checks stripes and shoes all joined together and harmonized like a Beethoven symphony.
Perhaps it would not have gone as nicely if it was a full seersucker suit - agreed - never really thought of it from that side before.
Over the Summer, one of the Ralph Lauren salesmen at the Mansion here in NYC was wearing the new Purple Label brown/white spectators with white or cream trousers, navy double breasted blazer, chocolate brown tie with white stripes, white shirt and pink checked pocket square. It was a nice look and would have worked well with light gray trousers too. I would never think to wear a pink pocket square but the darkness of it harmonized with the brown in the tie and shoe and the check harmonized with the stripe of the tie.
John, yes that Flusser photo shows the DOW wearing slip-ons with odd seersucker trousers, which all of us would probably do quite happily. And he'd undoubtedly have worn slip-ons with a seersucker suit. I think spectator brogues look better, but that's just my personal taste.
I have both brogue and slip-on spectators that I pair with my cream linen trousers during the season. I have to admit, I find myself reaching for the slip-ons more often.
Even with the wrong colour suede, they're awfully good looking and I'm sure you'll wear them well.
Happy Birthday and many more well-dressed days.
John, Will, Laguna et al., it's typically when I wear my spectators with my seersucker suit that I get the compliments. They stand out more than if I'm wearing them with a pair of linen trousers, but they typically complement the suit nicely.
Typically the four-in-hands that I wear with my seersucker are conservative stripes, so there's not an above-the-waist / below-the-waist battle for attention. Although you can't see the shoes here, you get a sense of the tie: http://tinyurl.com/3axqdf
Scott, that's a great tie with soft colors to complement the seersucker and what are probably darker brown spectators. (?)
The cuff and nicely folded square add positively to the overall look as well.
I agree with John, that's a really nice look. Well done, Scott. For a seersucker suit, what colour do you guys prefer? I'm considering blue, but can't decide whether it should be a dark blue or a light blue (as in Scott's photo). I have a fair complexion (except in summer when I tan), so I think the darker blue might be better. The blue seersucker trousers and shorts I have are all dark blue.
Trad -- I like pale grey or tan for something different but not too far out.
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