The Norfolk jacket was arguably the "casual" coat that re-started the mode of trousers that complemented, but did not match, the jacket. Of course, men's clothing has gone back and forth from matching to complementing since the first dandy invented pantaloons shortly after discovering fire. But we owe the current era to this, the first modern sport coat.
The principal feature of the Norfolk is the shoulder construction that made it easier to raise a gun to bear on a bird. And this same feature is the principal reason we see so few of them today. The action back and half belt make it more complex to sew, which translates to more expensive to make. Which in turn means it won't be found on many retail racks.
Still, a man wearing one won't see himself coming and going. And he can dress it down with moleskins or dress it up with gabardines like the man in the illustration. Because his trousers don't have to match.
Tuesday, February 19, 2008
The Disappearing Norfolk
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The principal feature of the Norfolk is the shoulder construction that made it easier to raise a gun to bear on a bird. And this same feature is the principal reason we see so few of them today.
You think? Isn't the reason simply the looks of it, which people might see as too old-fashioned, complicated, awkward or the like? Also not clear enough where to wear it. In the office? With the full belt? Just looks like a safari jacket to many, I think.
(Personally, I find it difficult not to see Basil Rathbone's face above it.)
You would wear the Norfolk in fall the same places you wear a safari jacket in spring, and for the same reasons. Pockets being high on the list.
I'm not sure if you would be interested in them, but here are some new variations of the Norfolk done for the small clothing line Engineered Garments and a special collection for Woolrich:
Engineered Garments variant
Woolrich variant
Woolrich variant
They are not true Norfolks, but they do take many inspiration cues from them.
There's also another great illustration of them on wikipedia, in case you haven't seen it already: Norfolk image
I can envision few occasions today where a Norfolk jacket would not look like costume. They are simply too old-fashioned. I was just re-reading a bio of the Edwardian era English explorer, politician, and diplomat Aubrey Herbert, who was renowned for his atrocious dress sense, and the book reproduces a letter to Herbert from his wife Mary in which she takes him to task for his wearing of Norfolk jackets, which she considered too dowdy and old-fashioned. This was in 1912 or 1913 or whereabouts; I wonder if sentiment has changed since?
A safari jacket, or bush jacket, would be more practical. There are two elderly gents in my town who regularly wear safari jackets. One of the chaps regularly sports a powder blue number, with khaki shorts and sandals. It makes me smile to picture ASW readers wearing this outfit.
I have never been happier than when wearing a Norfolk jacket.
I'm rather surprised that a few readerss think a Norfolk is "old fashioned" or confuse it with a safari jacket.
I can only conclude they've never the real thing up close.
I dearly love the one I bought thirty years ago. And it never failed to elicit compliments. (Alas, I —ahem— grew out of it in the last decade.)
I am resigned to having one made (sending the old one along as a pattern), since I've found no source for one like it today.
I'm afraid they're like good dressing gowns and smoking jackets: a casualty of the dumbing-down o men's clothing.
I've seen a few chaps sporting Norfolk jackets and a pair of jeans. Mainly from the 20/30 age group bracket. I think the clothing store Psyche was selling them over Xmas 2010. Given that these cost around the £400+ mark, they certainly add an air of distinction about the person who can pull off wearing such a coat. Perhaps it makes a welcome change from the polyester sports wear that has become ubiquitous these days???
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