From Justin
Assume that I have $5,000 to $7,000 to spend on a business wardrobe and that I have nothing in my closet. Please suggest how you would approach this if you were in my situation.
For your budget I will suggest one charcoal single breasted suit, one navy wool blazer with medium gray wool trousers and one not-too-flashy wool odd jacket with tan wool trousers, all in mid-weight cloth. Pick a neutral odd jacket like the one in the photo. It will work with the gray trousers as well as the tan so you can mix and match the trousers and the jackets. The blazer and the odd jacket will be fine on all but the most formal days and then you wear the suit. Budget about $1,000 per combination - that will buy a respectable quality jacket and trousers from a source like Ben Silver.
Next, go to Alden and buy a pair of black 907 oxfords, a pair of brown slip-ons, and a pair of brown oxfords with some light brogueing. Your bill will be about $1,500. For that you'll get appropriate shoes for most occasions and you shouldn't need to wear the same pair two days in a row. If you need belts, get them now, in the same colors as the shoes.
After that, go to a shirtmaker and order six to ten dress shirts. If you wait until MyTailor comes to town you'll get good quality for less than $150 apiece. You'll want two white and six blue (royal oxford, end on end, broadcloth, bankers stripe, and something lightweight). Thrill yourself with two in other colors. :-) Do not buy off the rack. Get started with shirts that fit now and you'll wear them for the rest of your life.
Finally, go to Sam Hober online and order a solid blue oxford necktie, a black grenadine, a gray Irish poplin, and at least three others of your choice for $80 apiece. Get more if you will wear them daily. And buy a package of three white linen handkerchiefs somewhere for $50 for your breast pocket even if you won't wear them to the office.
You'll also need some socks and underwear. You should have at least five blue, not black, over the calf hose in cotton and five more in wool.
This list is probably $5-6,000 with tax and shipping. If you want to spend a bit more, add a tan single breasted raincoat with a zip-out lining from Burberry or Aquascutum.
Next year, repeat the process with warm weather clothing.
Next, go to Alden and buy a pair of black 907 oxfords, a pair of brown slip-ons, and a pair of brown oxfords with some light brogueing. Your bill will be about $1,500. For that you'll get appropriate shoes for most occasions and you shouldn't need to wear the same pair two days in a row. If you need belts, get them now, in the same colors as the shoes.
After that, go to a shirtmaker and order six to ten dress shirts. If you wait until MyTailor comes to town you'll get good quality for less than $150 apiece. You'll want two white and six blue (royal oxford, end on end, broadcloth, bankers stripe, and something lightweight). Thrill yourself with two in other colors. :-) Do not buy off the rack. Get started with shirts that fit now and you'll wear them for the rest of your life.
Finally, go to Sam Hober online and order a solid blue oxford necktie, a black grenadine, a gray Irish poplin, and at least three others of your choice for $80 apiece. Get more if you will wear them daily. And buy a package of three white linen handkerchiefs somewhere for $50 for your breast pocket even if you won't wear them to the office.
You'll also need some socks and underwear. You should have at least five blue, not black, over the calf hose in cotton and five more in wool.
This list is probably $5-6,000 with tax and shipping. If you want to spend a bit more, add a tan single breasted raincoat with a zip-out lining from Burberry or Aquascutum.
Next year, repeat the process with warm weather clothing.
From James
Would you please review and comment on the book London Cut: Savile Row Bespoke Tailoring?
Beat you to it! There's a review here.
The photo is copyright © Scabal. All rights reserved.
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12 comments:
Will!! "And buy a package of three white linen handkerchiefs somewhere for $50 for your breast pocket even if you won't wear them to the office." Why, in the name of all that is good and holy, would he not wear them??
Will,
Is it just me, or is the jacket on the gentleman in the picture above too large at the shoulders?
-Shamigo
You're a tough critic shamigo. :-)
Excellent post, Will. I really enjoyed it. It took me back to my first job out of school making $40,000 a year and buying Allen Edmonds shoes and Brooks Brothers shirts and ties. (And perhaps a little Jos. A. Bank thrown in for good (or bad?) measure)
And MyTailor comes to New York later this month. I am looking forward to having some shirts made.
Thanks for the post.
Great post, Will. I am surprised you did not recommend more suits. I always see men wearing suits at meetings and corporate functions. I suppose the number of suits would depend on what kind of industry. I'm intrigued by the comments on MyTailor. I'm seriously considering dropping by their offices for a shirt or two.
He could get a second suit instead of the blazer but he's in Houston and the few workplaces I've seen in that city seemed less formal than the they would be in the Northe
ast.
For a New Yorker I'd have recommended a navy suit instead of the blazer.
For discussion purposes only, I own 4 pair of Alden shoes and approximately 8 pair of Crockett & Jones. I know that there are better made shoes out there such as EG, and when in a position to afford them I will purchase EG.
However, owning both Alden and C&J, I can say that I prefer C&J as I find them to be:
1. Better looking
2. Better fitting
3. Not much more expensive than Alden
These days, I rarely pull my Aldens out of the closet except on rainy days when I don't want to mess up my good shoes. Except for today - it is raining in NYC but I have a date tonight so I opted for C&J.
Perhaps it is simply the models I own that has turned me off. I have:
1. Black Cape Cod (Gucci-like slip-on)
2. Tan tassle loafer
3. Brown suede monk-strap
4. black slip on (penny loafer type)
All purchased at Madison Ave store.
Perhaps if I purchased an Alden oxford I would like them more. Not sure.
"I suppose the number of suits would depend on what kind of industry."
Harvey Coleman's "Empowering Yourself: The Organizational Game Revealed" breaks down organizational dress codes by region.
Before read it I remember flying down to Atlanta for a meeting with a client and their admin thinking I was the boss because of my gray chalkstripe.
For Houston Will's advice is spot-on although the OP may want to get his shirts at Hamilton rather than mytailor.
John, in my work I recommend Alden frequently as it's widely available in the United States while C&J is 20% more expensive and harder to find outside of New York.
Very Interesting Read!
Thanks-You!
..::NoLimitDomains::..
Mr. Dynend: Love your blog! I'm one of the few women who read it.
Speaking as an image consultant I would first recommend that this man have a consultation with someone who understands color, style and fabrication before investing in anything. That way he'd be able to build a wardrobe that flatters him and is as individual as he is.
Could you please point me to a female version of this question? I am so lost :(
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