Andrew Hudson of Harvie & Hudson was in San Francisco this week for his semi-annual visit. His ancestor George Frederick Hudson began the shirtmaker in partnership with Thomas George Harvie three generations ago. The firm is the only remaining Jermyn Street bespoke shirtmaker still owned solely by the founding families.
Harvie & Hudson tends to work principally with English shirting mills like Acorn. The made to measure shirts which are the heart of their business shirts are cut by hand and sewn by machine. And though they can make just about any style that a customer desires, most of their shirts are double cuffed and spread collared.
English makers focus on shirt and necktie colorways that complement the City's gray and blue suits, so their offerings tend towards pink and lilac. And then there's the collaboration with the silk weavers, a practice that's a specialty of Jermyn Street. Once they've chosen shirt patterns for the season, H&H commissions neckties that match their colors exactly, something that can only be done with woven ties. With a woven tie, threads of the precise color can be selected. Printed neckties, on the other hand, cannot be printed with color accuracy.
Conservative suits, black shoes and brightly colored shirts with matching neckties. That's English style the Harvie & Hudson way.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Very English Shirts by Harvie and Hudson
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3 comments:
I looked at their swatches a few weeks ago in New York. Very nice guys and very nice shirting fabrics/designs.
I wish I could have made a purchase but had already purchased a number of shirts the week before.
Interesting, but I have to say I've never felt the pressing need to exactly match the colors in my tie to the colors in my shirt.
I've noticed that the English taste for tints and shades in shirts and ties can sometimes be jarring to my American eyes. Some of the colors are muddy or metallic, and lacking in purity.
Are white collars and cuffs on colored dress shirts seen in the rest of the EU as British style?
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