Good times or bad, few of us can have everything we want and we must each establish our own priorities. For me these days, sales hold few bargains. My needs, or rather my desires, are highly specific and unlikely to be found on sale.
It's important to remember that the cost of clothing is not the initial cost, but the price divided by the number of times it's worn, plus some arbitrary amount of bonus points for the pleasure it provides. A bespoke suit worn for twenty years can be a bargain. Conversely, I own a cotton Luciano Barbera suit that had a retail price as high as most bespoke suits. I bought it for 70% off on a whim and have worn it only twice because the collar just does not fit properly around the neck. It may be the most expensive item that I own.
That said, I have my own ways to economize. For example, I buy my own cloth for odd trousers and send it to a factory where it's made up. Trousers are principally straight seams and I don't see enough difference between MTM and bespoke in this instance to warrant paying twice as much per pair. I do the same with overcoats and most of my shirts.
The best economy is a wardrobe of simple, obviously high quality items that give you pleasure every time you wear them. The uncomplicated odd jacket and gray flannels to the left can be dressed up or down with changes to its accessories, so it can be worn repeatedly without becoming tiresome.
Sunday, April 20, 2008
Economy
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11 comments:
Will,
What company do you use for your MTM trousers?
Thanks!
Chris
Will,
I heartily agree. Incidently, who is your trouser maker?
I use Martin Greenfield in Brooklyn, New York.
Great Post Will,
Can you give me some direction on tracking down fabric. I need a good bit number of new odd trousers and a new overcoat.
Cheers,
Carl
Will,
You have touched the heart of a suitable wardrobe with this post...
You only need a few, high quality items and bespoke gives a man that certain pleasure every time he builds his dress for that day. He knows this because women are insanely jealous of his fidelity toward those gray flannels on odd jacket. No matter how often he wears those two pieces they always provide a fresh look. If he is particularly skilled with a few items like these in his wardrobe rotation, it will be a long time before he will wear the same thing twice. Apart from the money he saves, he is faithful to the variety offered by a few select items. They cost him a pretty penny, but never tire. Now...what woman can give a man this for so long? Only a precious few...
Will please alaborate on how you measure for and order your odd trousers and overcoats.
Nungesser, I send Greenfield fabric and they send me clothes based on my measurements which have been on file there for decades (we updated them last about five years ago). I have the trousers cuffed and the waist adjusted locally when necessary.
Not significantly different than any other MTM relationship except for the distance.
Where do you get your fabrics?
Thanks for the great idea!
Fabrics? Scabal, Minnis, Holland & Sherry, etc.
Readers in the New York metro area should make pilgrimages to Tip Top. I believe you can find the address using the ASW search function. There is also a bolt end seller on eBay though I've never used him.
This question might mark me as a newcomer, but I have to ask - what is MTM? It sounds like the best way to go considering the trouble I have finding pants of the proper proportion..
MTM is an abbreviation for clothing that's made to the customer's measurements using the maker's standard pattern.
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