Men's clothes change slowly but they do change. Every century or so, the most formal clothes in the male hierarchy disappear, to be replaced by what had been the second most formal. And what we're seeing today are the late stages of the replacement of white tie with black tie, and black tie with the suit. 
And so I thought it appropriate to recognize the epitome of formal and semi-formal evening clothes. No-one wore them better than the late Duke of Windsor.
There is little variation permitted in formal dress but even so the Duke's waistcoat was a bit better than everyone else's. And of course he popularized many of what were the innovations in black tie itself, from midnight blue as black to the double breasted dinner jacket.
I understand that we don't change for dinner any longer but the general disappearance of evening clothes leaves the world a poorer place.
Tuesday, April 8, 2008
No One Wore Evening Clothes Better
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A nice explanation of sartorial drift, Will. It leaves me a little sad. The barbarians are not only inside the gates, but they are also dictating our standards of dress. Maybe we will live long enough to see the return of proper evening clothes.
But why not changing for Dinner - at least with friends, who have a sense for things like that and in a private household? This wouldn't cost too much effort, but would bring a little bit of elegance to our everyday-life.
By the way, I can see a change in that: In the provincial parts of Austria, where I live you were able to see an absolute dissappearing of evening wear also on balls and very formal occasions. But now, the young ones bring it back, and the only sort of people, dressed in a suit on such occasions are those with 40 - 60 years of age.
Surrounding architecture frequently makes evening wear seem more like a point made than an elegance enhanced.
Windsor's cuts are very English and sharp, suggestive of military. It is from another age. The softer modern style is right for us.
We should feel free to inflect our own elegance, which is no less real than Windsor's.
Well said Will. I do have a group of friends that will occasionally throw a small black tie dinner. But even at these events some guests will arrive in a suit or even less. I do hope that the younger folks will rediscover formal wear, albeit with their own interpretation.
It is indeed sad that we're seeing some of this elegance being lost to the ages. I belong to a few literary societies that are focused on the Victorian/Edwardian era, so when I attend those dinners, I use it as an excuse to pull out the black tie or occasionally the white tie.
Now that I'm thinking if it Will, have you thought of arranging some gatherings where we can find an excuse to go formal? I work in the social media space and whenever prominent bloggers or podcasters travel to a city on business, we typically arrange what we call a "Geek Dinner," where readers/fans get together, usually for an informal meal.
I'd suggest that you let people know about your travel schedule (or we let you know about ours via a site like Upcoming or Dopplr so we can have "Suitable Dinners." It would be a great way to get to meet your readership, share your latest tips and (dare I say it) maybe even build your client base.
What does everyone else think?
I do meet readers and other clothing people when I travel but it's usually for lunch. A black tie dinner is an excellent suggestion.
Now if I can only get Desmond Merrion to finally make his Spring NYC trip...
Mr. Monty,
I am all for a Suitable get together. I will be there bright-eyed and bushy tailed, whenever and wherever it may occur. Will, just name the time and place. I just inherited my grandfather's monocle and have been dying for an excuse to pair it with his top hat....
I would look forward to such a gathering too.....
1st Annual ASW Dinner
Ah, but HRH's late-in-life golf attire was vile beyond belief. Absolutely hip-hop in its pattern clashing intensity.
It wasn't only his golf attire, which at least has a tradition of discordance. I have a photo of the Duke in an odd jacket wearing a matching checked shirt and necktie that's truly abominable.
But in evening clothes, he sets an example for us all.
The only way you can establish a dress code, unfortunately, is by excluding those that don't adhere to it.
In the past when there were doormen and servants, dress codes were enforced by impersonal staff. Today in our servant free society, the only way a host can enforce a dress code to an event is by barring the door themselves --an upfront and personal confrontation few are willing to endure. (And an awful hit to the digestion afterwards.)
The Gatsby Picnic is successful partially because of the gate keepers who keep those out who aren't dressed appropriately. Knowing there's impersonal gate keepers who can't be pressed upon to bend the dress code rules because of a your relationship to the host makes a large difference. They are impartial, but absolute, judges.
They also do a fabulous job of educating people a month in advance what dress the event will require --and Art Deco events through the rest of the year are elevated in dress as well because of the Gatsby Gatekeeper effect. The Ahwahanee Heritage Holidays was sparkling this year. The men did an excellent turn out for the formal dinner, tea dances, and all events: http://flickr.com/photos/tags/adsc/
Perhaps Ascot is even a better example: Having one exclusive (and exclusionary) annual event where the dress code is actually enforced raises the dress standards of the membership for the entire year.
Agreed on all counts that times where dressing for dinner and enjoying the food and the company were better.
On another note one of my favorite pictures of the Duke, taken on his wedding day...
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/3/31/Wallis_and_Edward.jpg
Evening aside, the past few weddings I have been to have been plagued with the $59 tux rental special. Not that I don’t like being better dressed that the groom …. If some men can't manage occasions of epic importance, I think the hope for evening wear is a lost cause.
The comments remind me of a recent trip to Vegas. I arraged a dinner for my wife and I at the Eiffel Tower Restaurant. We were dressed well, not evening clothes but a grey suit, stripped shirt and a coordinating pocket square. When we arrive and took our seats we noticved others who were wearing grubby jeans and T-shirts. As the night went on the new arrivals were dressed better. But it was disappointing at first. And please ntoe that when I made my rsvp it stated that jackets were preferred.
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