From Franklin
Recently some of your essays have shown spectator shoes. Can you recommend a source for an affordable version?
The problem with inexpensive specs is that they tend to be made entirely of leather rather than the originals' leather and suede or canvas. The all leather look leaves a bit to be desired and, in my opinion, you should save your money until you can afford a mid-range spectator from a company like Crockett & Jones.

From Simon
I am about to get my first made to order shirt (either a key largo blue stripe with Windsor collar or a blue herringbone with white Windsor collar and white cuffs). As I will only wear this shirt with a suit or when I wear a tie, the question is regarding cuffs with links or buttons. I feel that buttons on a nice well cut shirt could look cheap. But I dislike a French cuff or oversized cuffs. What would you advise?
If you respect tradition, contrast collar shirts should always have turnback cuffs. I prefer that the cuffs are also white but that's optional.
Button cuffs are fine for everyday wear otherwise. No-one will think your shirt looks cheap because they see a button on your sleeve.
If you do get buttons, I recommend two of them on the cuff parallel to your arm. They hold the cuff a bit straighter and the look, in my opinion, is a bit more finished.





3 comments:
Will,
In addition to the C&Js that you recommended, I also found these specs at Brooks Brothers that look like the ones in today's illustration:
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=523&Product_Id=1048866&Parent_Id=522#
What do you think of these? Think they'll do well as entry-level specs?
How about using MOP buttons?
Dear Will, perhaps you could give me some advice? I would like to order my husband some new shirts. We've had good luck in the past with ravistailor.com (they made his wedding suit for him two years ago, back when every shop I visited here in San Francisco sneered at me that a three-piece suit would be impossible to find, "completely out of fashion." Now I see that Brad Pitt is wearing three-piece suits so I assume we were the trendsetters! But I digress.)
I'm just completely bewildered by the number of choices--especially around the collars. Ainsley, spread, semi-spread, sculpted, forward point?
I would like to get him one very formal white shirt and a few more casual shirts in various colors. He is mostly a tee shirt and jeans fellow but I would like him to have a bit more choice in his wardrobe. Can you give me some advice, or point me to some resource that would help me choose something simple and classic? Thank you so much!
(Here is an example of what I am looking at for the casual shirts--your advice on fabrics would also be much appreciated! http://www.ravistailor.com/fabrics.php?styleID=2742)
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