Friday, May 30, 2008

Barathea Time

The start of summer means we change hats, shoes, suits, shirts, neckties and even braces with the season. In winter I support my suit trousers with braces, called suspenders in the United States, with straps of boxcloth, a heavy felt. For summer I switch to the barathea version, a lighter fabric made from silk and wool.

Summer or winter, braces support a man's suit trousers with less aggravation than a belt. They're "don and forget," unlike belted trousers that have to be pulled up several times a day. The ends should by the way match one's shoes, or be white. I wear white, so I can wear any pair of braces with any shoes.

Barathea is not quite as comfortable to wear as boxcloth, as the fabric is thinner and not as cushiony. But barathea braces are also considerably lighter than boxcloth and that makes a difference in the heat. Indeed, the dog days of summer are the only time I will occasionally do without as some of my summer suits have trousers designed to be self-supporting.

The best makers of braces these days is Albert Thurston. I endorse Thurston because its models are sized, and the boxcloth versions are designed so that they can be shortened. That means that the metal adjustors are always near one's waist where they belong. Other products unfortunately are "one size fits none," which puts the adjustors at shoulder level - where they can be very distracting to someone who is supposed to be looking at my face.

Summer is barathea braces time.

10 comments:

John said...

Very informative as usual, Will. Thanks.

Koenraad said...

Most RTW braces are neither made of boxcloth nor barathea, but of elastic. Is elasticity an advantage or a disandvantage for braces?

Laguna Beach Trad said...

Nice post, Will. I watched the movie 'Charlie Wilson's War' last night, and the preponderance of characters wearing braces got me thinking. When I wore suits everyday I wore braces with them maybe 50% of the time. I rarely wear suits now, but when I do I wear a pair of J.Press striped braces.

Paul said...

Will, some tailors have suggested to me that trousers meant to be worn with braces should be high-waisted. Do you agree? Is there any reason not to wear braces with trousers at the natural waistline?

Scott Monty said...

Rather than an American-British linguistics difference, I was under the impression that braces were fastened with buttons, while suspenders were the clip-on style.

El Aristócrata said...

I never wear belt when I am wearing a suit. But instead of braces I have in my trousers (on the waist) two things that help to make it thinner if necessary (I am afraid I do not know the name in English and I could not find any photo). Each of them is located in each part of the waist. It is quite popular and many times advised by European tailors (particularly for those whose are not that tall

Shaul-Ike said...

El aristocráta, "side adjusters"?

Will, how can people see the metal through your jacket?! ;-)

Paul, unfortunately braces today, including Thurston's, are made for people of 6 ft upwards, and they're made for low-waisted trousers. That makes sense because most people are large(r than my 5' 8 1/2") and trousers are made to end at the hips unless you go bespoke, specifically tell your tailor and he both understands and believes you.

That means that even with adjustable or even made-to-measure braces, the Y-part in the back will be too high between your shoulders, so that the angle of the two parts that go over your shoulders is wrong and they bulge. This is especially annoying when you're wearing a well fitted jacket, as if there was a knot.

El Aristócrata said...

Thanks Shaul-ike
There are like the ones in the photo. How correct are to use them instead of a belt or braces?
Thanks
I got this photo.
http://www.putfile.com/pic/8233077

Shaul-Ike said...

Will will know this better, but I sh'd say they are primarily made to wear with braces, not with a belt and certainly not as an alternative to both.

When you wear braces, your trousers' waist should not show a gap nor be so tight that it keeps up on its own, because that would mean it's too tight when you move or sit down - a common problem with belts.

I think side adjusters are there to guarantee this close but comfortable fitting when you gain or lose a bit of volume, even in the course of a day.

orders said...

I wear Thurston Braces all the time, my favourite being Boxcloths however i have a large selection of Barathea too. I also order my braces with black, brown, white etc differing runners (ends) thus eliminating the matching runner and shoes problem

 
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