Thursday, May 22, 2008

Patch and Flap Pockets


A reader wrote recently asking my opinion on patch and flap pockets and I responded that they weren't my favorite but they have been, for some unknown reason, a traditional styling element on gabardine suits in the United States. Here Apparel Arts shows them on tan gabardine in both city and university settings. The only difference is the top stitching on the pockets on the campus suit.

I remember, in the distant past when Brooks Brothers was my authority on all matters related to dress, that patch and flap pockets were the default on bespoke tweed and gabardine suits unless I requested something else specifically. I know I had them, top stitching and all, on a tan gabardine as well as a gray herringbone that I finally donated to charity last year.

The downside of patch pockets in general is that they are a bit smaller than standard pockets, and more inclined to bulge. That's not a good thing for a man who, like me, uses every pocket that he has. On the positive side, they don't have undersides that need to be hidden by lining inside the jacket, although that's usually something that matters only to summer suits and neither tweed nor gabardine is a suiting I reach for on a hot day.

That said, I have one tweed with patch and flap side pockets that I ordered just to remind me of the days when I spent my Saturdays at BroBroClo, the name my now long retired salesman had me write on the many checks I left there.

2 comments:

Tim said...

I think of the three styles of pockets as varying levels of formality. The set-in pocket being most formal, and the patched flap as casual, and unflapped patch as most casual. I've had tweed suits made with all three, though I prefer only set-in pockets if they're angled, or a ticket pocket is added.

I enjoy all three styles, which is not surprising growing up with an American RTW lexicon. I like to use the pocket style to set the tone and mood of the suit of odd jacket I'm looking for.

ADG said...

Speaking of top stitching, patch pockets etc. also reminded me of the old "hooked center vent" which seemed to be part and parcel of the Haspel poplin suits that I had in college...one in olive drab and one in tan.

I've moved beyond the 3 button sack coat world but still remember how intriguing those types of "treatments" were.

 
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