In these photos tailor Thomas Mahon and I are discussing the details of a quarter lining in a Fallan & Harvey jacket. Where a half lined coat has Bemberg or other lining material down the sides and half way down the back, the quarter lined jacket has most of the back and side lining removed to allow for greater air circulation. Visible seams are either finished or taped.
This photo shows how there is just enough lining to hold an eyeglass pocket (near the arm hole).
Some English tailors are less familiar with quarter lined coats and tend to fall back on the half lining because it's relatively easy to remove a piece of lower back material. A quarter lined jacket is a bit more work as the lining has to be sewn into place, however it wears considerably cooler.
Monday, May 5, 2008
A Quarter Lining
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4 comments:
Very timely post. I've just purchased a lightweight (7 oz.) wool made-to-measure suit. I specified a quarter lining to provide maximum ventilation on my daily 19-block walks between my office and Grand Central Terminal. The streets of Manhattan (not to mention the train platforms in Grand Central) in July and August can be pretty warm.
Hello Will,
Another great post and a really great suit in your photo. I love it.
Can I ask the source for your linen fabric? Also, if you have a source for some nice Mohair and wool fabric in the weights you recommend that would be great. I want to have a summer blazer made.
Best regards,
Carl
Paul,
"pretty warm" is a diplomatic way to describe the NYC subway in July and August. I can't believe that the richest city in the world travels in such poor, wretched conditions. But this summner I am armed with some new unlined odd jackets from Paul Stuart.
Unless I am very sorely mistaken, Mr. Mahon seems to be wearing a wonderful vintage Omega Seamaster in the first photo. Couldn't resist mentioning it.
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