I sometimes hear discussion of the "height of the gorge" on a jacket but I am unsure what this means. Some seem to imply that it is a synonym for button stance while others say that it is the area where the collar meets the lapel. Low gorge jackets are considered dated by many yet my search for a low gorge using the second definition wasn't successful.
The gorge is the jacket seam where collar and lapel meet. A higher or lower gorge means the notch or peak on the lapel lies higher or lower on the shoulder area. The first photo is a close-up of a recent Thomas Mahon double breasted. Note the lapel seam running roughly parallel to and above the shirt collar points.
The second photo is a vintage Jimmy Stewart in a double breasted. Notice how much lower the gorge and lapel peaks are on his chest.
I have a hard time keeping my shirt tucked in during the course of the day. I've read that one way to keep the shirt tucked in is to have a buttonhole put on the shirt to button to the trousers. Does this work?
Your shirttails are probably too short, a common problem with ready to wear shirts. I went to a seven button front with a tail a couple inches longer than normal after having that problem many years ago and have never had it since. Talk to your shirtmaker about it.
Saturday, May 31, 2008