From Geoff
I sometimes hear discussion of the "height of the gorge" on a jacket but I am unsure what this means. Some seem to imply that it is a synonym for button stance while others say that it is the area where the collar meets the lapel. Low gorge jackets are considered dated by many yet my search for a low gorge using the second definition wasn't successful.
The gorge is the jacket seam where collar and lapel meet. A higher or lower gorge means the notch or peak on the lapel lies higher or lower on the shoulder area. The first photo is a close-up of a recent Thomas Mahon double breasted. Note the lapel seam running roughly parallel to and above the shirt collar points.
The second photo is a vintage Jimmy Stewart in a double breasted. Notice how much lower the gorge and lapel peaks are on his chest.
From John
I have a hard time keeping my shirt tucked in during the course of the day. I've read that one way to keep the shirt tucked in is to have a buttonhole put on the shirt to button to the trousers. Does this work?
Your shirttails are probably too short, a common problem with ready to wear shirts. I went to a seven button front with a tail a couple inches longer than normal after having that problem many years ago and have never had it since. Talk to your shirtmaker about it.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
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5 comments:
The "short shirt" problem does also not arise when I wear braces. The shirt can move up an down on my body without being "bloused" over a Belt.
Maybe a silly question, but do you tuck your shirt underneath your underwear? Although you run the risk of displaying your briefs, I find this keeps most shirts tucked in for hours.
If all else fails and you really want to solve the problem, you can try using military uniform shirt stays. These attach to your socks and pull the shirt down with their elastic band.
Best regards,
Antonio
Jimmy Stewart is actually in a single-breasted, peak-lapel suit with vest in that scene from Alfred Hitchcock's "Rope"
SB or DB it's still got a low gorge. :-)
No question about that! I'm very familiar with this film, however, because it was the very first time I saw a S/B peak lapel suit. They weren't very common in my part of Texas in 1948.
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