Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Mix Dark and Light


Despite the matching shirt and necktie combinations that were popular for a while, a well-dressed man avoids monochromatic looks. Any composition that's too similar in color cannot accomplish what should be the objective of all dressing, which is to lead the observer's eye to the face.

The best looks vary the tones of jacket, shirt and necktie, with the dress shirt normally providing the lightest tones. One classic combination is a dark jacket, light shirt and intermediate toned necktie like the ensemble in the photo from cloth merchant Holland & Sherry. Another is the dark necktie, light shirt and intermediate toned jacket.

Flatter yourself by mixing dark and light.

6 comments:

Richard said...

"Any composition that's too similar in color cannot accomplish what should be the objective of all dressing, which is to lead the observer's eye to the face."

I've read this elsewhere but I'm not sure I understand the principle. Notice for yourself what you look at in people to see or meet, regardless of what they're wearing. It's the face, specifically the eyes. I would say this is automatically true regardless of the person's dress, unless the dress is so outlandish that it stands out as wholly abnormal, sickening "loud" or entirely inappropriate for the occasion (e.g. sandals as footwear to a funeral).

kds said...

Mixtures of light and dark are to some extent determined by convention. English tradition tends towards neckties that are somewhat lighter than the suits they're worn with. On the other hand, a very light necktie on a dark shirt and boldly striped suit is associated with a 'mafioso look'. It looks like some specific light and dark combinations, more than anything else, may be defining characteristics of specific looks.

kcurtin said...

Will,
This picture begs the question: how do you get your tie to be all free-flowing and blouselike? I can never get a knot that allows the loose ends to spread out that prominantly. Do you know what I mean?

Will said...

To me, the perfect four in hand necktie has a liquid drape to it. They drape best when the silk is not too stiff, and when there's a wool lining.

Bulgari neckties drape beautifully (I find the patterns unfortunate though), as do most of my Sam Hobers.

Jason said...

Perhaps I misunderstand what point you are getting at. While I concede that the old "Regis Philburn" / Who Wants to Be a Millionaire look is marginal, monochromatic looks can be sophisticated. Take a look at your own posting from March 4, 2008 "Gray Done Properly". Cary Grant was also well known to wear monochromatic looks. I don't think a wardrobe should exclusively of this approach, but what is wrong with the occasional monochromatic outfit?

Will said...

Cary Grant wore white shirts. A monochrome look is of a single color, including the shirt.