
If the necktie is disappearing and the bow tie rarely seen, what does that say about the ascot, a still more obscure form of neckwear? The ascot, or more accurately the day cravate as that's the form we are concerning ourselves with today, is a broad silk scarf with a pleated neckband and two wide flaps of equal width that normally come to a point at the ends. Worn under an open shirt collar, ascots were popular early in the twentieth century as an elegant form of casual dress and, when worn by a man who is both stylish and at ease with himself, it remains an effective way to dress up an odd jacket. That's "cuffthis," an Ask Andy About Clothes forum member modeling one of his in the photo. It's tied in a simple knot:
Since the media sterotype of the addled aristocrat usually shows him dressed in a blazer and an ascot, the modern ascot wearer must above all avoid pretentiousness. That means he should wear patterned silk that just peeks from under the shirt collar, preferably with a tweed or similar jacket instead of a blazer and never under any circumstance on public transportation. Unlike other neckties, the ascot is tied before a man puts on his shirt and calls for an opaque shirting fabric so that the silk is only visible above the open collar. Warning flags should fly as soon as a second shirt button is left open and if a third is left undone the wearer deserves any humiliation that may be aimed in his direction.
Say a prayer for the ascot.
Sunday, July 20, 2008
Say a Prayer for the Ascot
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16 comments:
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the mere wearing of an ascot screams pretentiousness these days. Unfortunately, I think we may have to kiss the ascot good-bye.
Long live the ascot! It is our duty to assert integrity of purpose and imaginative vision against the play-it-safers,the creatures of the commonplace,the slaves of the ordinary. Cecil Beaton dixit.
O.
I believe a morning coat always fit better with an ascot. It is too early to say good bye to it
I have worn an ascot since the age of 15, but very rarely in the last 30 years, or so. I have felt self-conscious when doing so. That’s a shame, because I really enjoy wearing one, and feel it’s flattering for me. I resolve to improve the situation!
When I do wear one I confess to leaving the second button undone. It’s a matter of proportion. I’m a largish fellow and consequently have larger shirts and jackets. The added silk exposed, and the added depth of the V formed by the shirt and ascot better balance the proportion of shirt, jacket and ascot, and make for a more pleasing harmony of forms. But I understand that on someone half my size, the opposite might be true.
I don’t feel an ascot is pretentious. Particularly on someone older, such as myself. And I can attest that it is more pleasing to the eye of any neighbor than my exposed neck would be. If it is anachronistic, so what? If we were to start discarding articles of clothing based on our fears of what someone else might find pretentious, we’d quickly all be down to gym shorts and t-shirts. If I please myself, I am happy. If I try to please everyone, often no one is.
I actually have about 5 ascots and I wear them on a regular basis. While I agree with Scott that they are very dangerous in that they "scream pretentiousness" , I think it is possible to pull them off well.
I think as with all items of clothing they are a matter of how they fit or contrast with the personality.
Take this example: A 13 year old kid wearing a tweed Jacket with leather elbow patches and smoking a pipe will probably make you wonder whether the kid is heading for a costume party. The same outfit on a 50 year old professor at Cambridge University England, will seem entirely appropriate.
The same goes for the ascot. If your personality is utterly unpretentious, an ascot can actually work quite well.
I will definitely not give up mine. And since I do hope that I will be around this planet for another 30 - 60 years, I will claim that the last ascot will not have been worn for quite a while.
I'm not sure what I see here; it appears to be light green ascot over a tangerine turtleneck underneath a checked or plaid shirt under an olive corduroy jacket. What is one to make of this sartorial mess? It gives a whole new meaning to haphazard dressing.
I believe that's just a tangerine neck.
The only prayer I have for the ascot is for its hastened disappearance. It is sheer caricature at this point in time and is without question dated and irredeemable. Those who continue to champion it in daily dress (it might remain appropriate on the stage provided proper context) in my opinion are simply going too far. It puts one in the company of L. Ron Hubbard.
I don't believe it can be worn with the same restraint which can be applied to neckties or pocket squares, both of which can be easily blended with an outfit or made to pop as desired. Such flexibility is not afforded to the ascot, but, some will of course persist with this flamboyance.
Regarding undone shirt buttons:
I read once, perhaps here on A Suitable Wardrobe, that one undone button is acceptable when the sun is up, two when its down and three if you can see the Mediterranean Sea.
This rule of thumb has yet to let me down.
@daniel: I heartily disagree with that sentiment. If you choose a plain Ascot and don't bunch it up, it simply covers your chest-hair/under-shirt and is otherwise almost invisible.
Of course if you insist on fluffing an Ascot to the size of a grapefruit and stick a diamond studded pin in its center (very popular in the late 19th / early 20th century), than you cannot be helped in any case.
Maybe you just happen to never have seen one worn well.
I wore an ascot with an oxford cloth buttondown and a sweater vest on my first date with my future wife. We've been married almost twenty years, so it must have worked.
I've been seeing the ascot pop up spontaneously lately. On the hot TV show, Gossip Girl, the character Chuck Bass often sports an ascot in a VERY stylish manner. His whole wardrobe is ace. I also saw an ascot on one of the young high-end real estate brokers on the new season of Bravo's Million Dollar Listing.
If the ascot is going to make a come back, it is going to be within the next couple of years. With the recent interest that today's youth is showing toward more dapper fashions, there is a chance. We can only hope for the best!
@phil et al., I would be very much pleased to look at a photo that anyone here considers to be a good example of an ascot tastefully worn. My previous comment sparked a bit of a debate, and so be it, as that is the purpose of blogs and comments. But the photo here is simply atrocious. I believe that a generous person would be limited to calling the above look, at best, 'frumpy.'
I feel it is necessary to make a brief caveat to my previous statement. I have since looked for a photo of an ascot that I found appealing and did so: a recent GQ magazine (the British edition, perhaps it was the March issue?) had a Ralph Lauren advertisement featuring two gentlemen in San Fransisco, one of whom was wearing a lavender and white striped oxford button up shirt and charcoal trousers. He was wearing a finely knitted beige/khaki/tan (sometimes you never quite know with retouched advertisements) ascot that seemed quite nice, and very understated. As for Chuck Bass.. I can only cringe, but perhaps I am the poorer for it.
Thanks, I'd been out of town and missed this. Well chosen, sir.
The character Chuck Bass from the teen drama "Gossip Girl" shows how an ascot can be worn with great elegeance and style as seen in these photos:
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/photos/uncategorized/2008/08/29/chuck_3.jpg
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/6409/003ji9.jpg
http://www.gossipgirlinsider.com/images/gallery/chuck-waits.jpg
http://www.gossipgirlinsider.com/images/gallery/the-basshole.jpg
http://www.gossipgirlinsider.com/images/gallery/basshole-lurks.jpg
http://www.gossipgirlinsider.com/images/gallery/the-dark-night.jpg
http://www.gossipgirlinsider.com/images/gallery/chuck-and-bart-bass.jpg
http://www.gossipgirlinsider.com/images/gallery/sulking.jpg
http://images.ctv.ca/gallery/photo/gg_s01e08_071113/image9.jpg
Here's another photo I found that displays the ascot in a tasteful manner:
http://img5.allocine.fr/acmedia/rsz/434/x/x/x/medias/nmedia/18/35/24/17/18837276.jpg
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