We found a theme in tan, white and black this week and we're sticking with it for another day. Hence this portrait of the late Prince Serge Obolensky, publicist, socialite and, during World War II, America's oldest paratrooper at age 53.
Now the Prince was painted in the spring or fall instead of summer. He's got a coat over his shoulder and that cardigan would be intolerable in the heat. The cooler season's the reason why his jacket can be brown instead of tan, but there's not much real change to the understated palette which would look great in horse country in a couple of months. And that's the point.
Men in the United States today have a difficult time finding role models for good dress. In an era when Vanity Fair's International Best Dressed List has become a who's in the media contest, we cannot depend on the movie studios to provide us with paragons of taste. But a reliable way to develop one's eye is to study paintings and photos of people who could afford to dress well a generation ago. Throw out the obvious outliers as too flamboyant or too conservative and the exemplars that remain will be a far better style guide than the red carpet of any televised awards show.
One thing that becomes obvious after such a study is that, despite my personal penchant for unusual socks, well dressed men do not strive to attract attention. Their clothes are consistent in style, fit well and are conservative in color. Like tan, white and black, to stick with a theme.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Sticking With a Theme
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7 comments:
“Men in the United States today have a difficult time finding role models for good dress.” Truer words were never uttered.
Will, I must say that I read your blog with great interest--I'd be hard-pressed to name another readily-accessible source that covers the same ground that you do, and even harder-pressed to find one that does so with your eloquence and breadth of knowledge.
All that said, though, I find myself disagreeing with you on some theoretical points. Your philosophy of dress is pretty well summed-up in this post; that is, being well-dressed means being unobtrusive, blending in, etc. I say balls to that! Where's the fun, the joie de vivre, the acknowledgment that life is frequently gritty and visceral and not staid, restrained, or buttoned-up?
Certainly dressing for a specific occasion requires the observation of certain mores (e.g. standards of business dress), and to disregard these unwritten codes is to run the risk of alienation. But other than that, lighten up a bit!
Do I sometimes think that Lapo Elkann looks like a maniac? Maybe. But which is more reflective of ungentlemanly conduct: wearing clashing patterns, or going out of one's way to throw a metaphorical rock at Lapo for having a bit of fun?
In any case, keep on keepin' on, because I have learned a great deal from you. But ease up on the guys in the robin's egg overcoats. Live and let live, I say.
Ranjan, imagine trying to have lunch with Johnny Depp, Lapo Elkann and Leon Talley, for example. Your eyes would be unable to find your plate for the visual distraction.
It's a trick that works only when the occasion will find you alone for a photograph.
Johnny Depp, Lapo Elkann and Leon Talley are all extreme examples, Will.
There are men out there who do not follow such strict conventions and are able to keep their guest's eyes above their wine glasses.
Dressing yourself should also include an element of fun and creativity!
Do you really mean to accuse a man (myself) who is wearing red socks with blue polka dots of being against fun and creativity in dress?
Will,
The cuffs from under his coat sleeves appear to be the same color as his vest, or at least what I thought was a vest. Is he wearing multiple coats?
I think it's a cardigan.
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