Wednesday, July 23, 2008

The Time to Buy Clothes


The time to buy clothes of course is when they're not needed, because by the time they're needed it's too late. At least, it's too late in the sense that a man's only choice will be to buy off the rack clothes that probably won't fit very well (an off the rack shirt is a terrible thing on me, perhaps exceeded only by shoes that raise blisters).

Consider the lead times required to have clothing made:

  • Shirts, two to three months if there's already a perfected pattern and twice as long if there isn't
  • Tailored clothing, two to twelve months depending on how often customer and tailor are in the same city
  • Shoes, about five months for made to order shoes and five to twelve months for bespoke shoes
My own backlog is currently a pair of shoes started in March that will be ready in September, one suit from March that ought to be ready in October, two other suits that will hopefully be ready this year but may slide into next, a hat that's due in early Autumn and four odd summer trousers that have been in never-never land since February and may be complete by Labor Day. And that doesn't include a couple shirts that keep going back to Hong Kong for one alteration or another.

So when is the best time to buy clothes? Probably when a man looks in his closet and thinks to himself that he has everything he needs. That's a leading indicator that some form of calamity is about to befall his wardrobe and he'd better order something.

9 comments:

Niels K. Petersen said...

I have been subscribing to your posts for a few months, and I must say that, although I have other notions on matters of style, I usually find your thoughts and examples thought provoking and inspirational. Posts like this one contribute to changing and adjusting my thoughts on how to buy and compose a wardrobe. I would like to thank you for contributing to my, should we call it sartorial education?

Tonyp said...

For the man who has everything and needs nothing. If that is the case one better start figuring out what went wrong and correct it. I usually think about what I don't have and how it will fit into my wardrobe. I am now contemplating a new suit and will have to think about what cloth and pattern will work. There is always something to keep me busy.

Tim said...

Socks! I’m thinking about socks. I think I can afford . . . socks!

Thank you, Will. Wonderful as always! And special thanks for another marvelous AA/Esky drawing.

Tonyp said...

getting back to the suit. What is a Fresco and when is one to be worn. Is this a lightweight summer suit or is there a type of cloth or weight that is considered a fresco? Enlighten please.

Will said...

Tony, you should have ordered your already. :-)

Fresco and its kin (including Holland & Sherry CrispAire and Smith's Finmeresco) are very breathable high-twist cloth designed for warm weather. They will only be seen in made to measure or bespoke clothing and weight will vary from 8 to 14 ounces.

Some pictures of various designs here:

http://www.hollandandsherry.com/pages/apparel/cloth_pages/spring_summer/hs329_crispaire_fresco.htm

base615 said...

Will,

long time reader but first time posting.

Love the blog in general but your shirtmaker sounds extremely slow. I get my bespoke shirts within the fortnight, sometimes even within a week.

Cheers,

Craig

Giuseppe said...

Some of us are buying clothes at thrift stores, and not really considering the length of time involved in bespoke goods. Good job you can afford it, but remember that true poise and style don't depend on the paycheck.
I love this blog, but you could stand to ease up on the aristocratic snobbery every once in a while, no?

Will said...

Giuseppe, I get a comment similar to yours about once a week and my response is always the same. ASW is about quality clothing. That's not snobbery, it's the point.

And all readers who are interested in the material, no matter how they are clad, are respected.

base615 said...

Giuseppe, it's nice that you're a size that allows you to fit into standard clothes. Not all of us are that lucky, I'd love to be able to buy or thrift stuff that's not bespoke and have it fit.