A long-time reader asked how I developed my knowledge of sartorial things and to tell the truth I'm not completely certain because I never worked in the business. But I do know that my learning began while I was in my early teens, at a place called the Squire Shop.
The Squire Shop of Hinsdale, the Illinois area where I lived with my family, was an independent clothier that operated in a Chicago commuter town surrounded by horse country for more than forty years. And it was the Squire Shop, with downtown's Brooks Brothers (less accessible until I could drive there on my own), that began to teach me me how to dress.
My teens were my duffel coat, Shetland sweater, oxford cloth shirt, corduroy trouser, argyle sock and Weejuns years. And, though I didn't need to wear much of the other merchandise very often, inside the store I was surrounded by regimental neckties, foulard scarves, and tweed jackets - clothes with textures and colorings of a quality that was very different from the relatively homogenous offerings of the chain stores that have replaced the independent retailer in so many modern American locales.
It's probably always been true that we get used to something and that makes it OK. And it's not completely unreasonable to argue that the community standards in many places are roughly what's sold in the local Target, or perhaps the Gap. But men who want to enjoy clothes at a level beyond that have to do more than read about clothing.
The committed student will pay particular attention to what people wore or are wearing that is worthy of his emulation. One man might like the clothes in Virginia's hunt country, another prefer the clubs of St. James, and a third, heaven help us, enjoy what passes for fashion on the runways of Los Angeles*. And then the student needs to talk about that style with the sellers who provide it. That means that if the student is not fortunate enough to live nearby one of the few quality resellers still extant, he needs to make time to shop for clothes when he travels.
In my opinion, it's that combination of seeing and discussing that's the best way to learn about clothes.
*The pages of People magazine are recommended only to those who hope to one day grace them.
Friday, August 8, 2008
Learning About Clothes
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7 comments:
I would like to highlight the "quality reseller" point. The majority of salespeople I have come across know little if anything about the clothes they are selling. Case in point: a friend of mine some year's back accompanied me to a department store that shall remain nameless as she wanted to get an application, while I looked at ties. She got her application (and started one week later) and joined me at the counter while I paid. She looked in the glass display case and asked, "what are those?" I looked down and responded "collar stays." She then asked what they were for and after several minutes of explanation, I still don't think she understood. By the way, she started in the men's department.
Most salespeople do not know what they are selling, it is agreed. I spend most of my time in stores educating the person that has offered to help me. My father imparted alot of knowledge to me about clothing and how it should be worn. From suits to casual wear. Some men can put on a suit and look well put together. In a casual setting its jeans and a T- shirt and they look lost. Here in LA however it seems anything goes and they call it fashion!
I lived in Chicago for many years the 70s through
the 80s. I was not familiar with the Squire Shop. However a check with Google produced this reference
from the U of Chicago Alumni Magazine from 2000:
James J. Cizek, PhB'48, MBA'50, died December 8 in Hinsdale, IL. He was 72. In the 1950s, Cizek opened a menswear business, the Squire Shop, which he ran until his 1994 retirement. Survivors include his wife, Dolores Miller Cizek, AB'57; a daughter; a son; and two stepsisters.
Was The Squire Shop across the street from the Hinsdale Theater? I never bought anything there but I think I remember it.
Turling and Tonyp are right on. Flusser repeats this in all his books I think. Salespeople are hired and put to work without ever being trained on selling the merchandise.
I learned a lot from my parents, some from watching old movies. I now live in a city that allows me to observe many well-dressed gentlemen. Sometimes I can discuss things with these well-dressed gentlemen. But I learned the most from very costly and atrocious errors. Always following the advice of "quality resellers" I'll add, and rarely from my own whims.
First MTM suit in a high quality men's store in SF's Union Square. Basic 2 button charcoal gray Hickey Freeman. On the final fitting I asked the clerk why I looked so awkward. "It's perfect. It's made for your body!" I spent all my savings at the time for that suit. The sleeves were too long, the jacket length too long and it could 've fit a three hundred pound gorilla.
Nordstrom Hart Schaffer suit MTM, second attempt, and another drain on my savings. I chose the suit over a down payment on a red convertible. My father, "you look awful...where did you get that suit?"
Caraceni in Rome many years later. Double breasted charcoal gray stripe. These are renowned tailors world-wide. Costly mistake. I kept saying something didn't work and they kept trying to convince me otherwise. It hangs lovingly in my closet today as a reminder.
All in all, making these mistakes is part of the process and the fun...if you can afford it. I couldn't always.
I would suggest that no matter how good the reputation, one must always be prepared to tell the "expert" off and stick to your guns. The more one spends the time and effort to learn from others, the mistakes will cost you far less. And I think these blogs are also a wonderful source of learning, refining and developing a personal sense of style.
Hi Will,
I'm a fourteen year old. And I was just wondering if you had any suggestions for how to dress well in a world where I am always outgrowing things.
--Tommy
Hi Tommy,
I am a seventeen year old who has finally reached a point when I don't have to worry about outgrowing clothes. here is what I have figured out works well for a cheap way to add a bit of class to a teen boy's wardrobe:
I suggest you buy a few pairs of chinos, in black, khaki, blue, etc. Buy an assortment of T-shirts in drab colours, as these are cheap (3 dollars each at Old Navy, etc.). ext. finally, buy perhaps two sports jackets (one in black), a tiny bit oversize (emphasis on the "tiny bit"). For the wintertime, a nice v-neck sweater or two can go over the t-shirts.
The jackets can be found for less than $20 at a second-hand shop if you are willing to do a bit of looking. Buy an inexpensive dress shirt and tie, and add it to your black sports jacket and black chinos for more formal occasions.
P.S. Lands End (www.landsend.com) is a great source of inexpensive but nice pants. Great value for the dollar.
I hope that helps,
–Nico
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