Things that determine whether a dress shirt fits properly:
- A half inch of shirt collar should be exposed above the collar of your jacket.
- You should be able to fit two fingers between your collar and neck when the shirt is buttoned.
- The shoulder seam (the seam between the body and the arm) should be at the end of your shoulder.
- The shirt body should be smooth and unwrinkled across your chest and there should be no pulling at the buttons.
- The cuff should reach the bottom of your thumb when your arms are at your sides, and there should be enough cloth in the sleeve so it remains there when you lift your arms straight in front of you.
- The shirt should remain tucked into your trousers when you lift your arms over your head. This usually requires at least six inches of tail inside the waistband.
6 comments:
What about the armhole? Is that a factor when determining shirt fit? I'm not sure the proper term for this.
Interesting post. I hope you write more tips in future chapters.
Here you have an intersting video about who is supposse to be the best shirt-maker or at least the most expensive one
Kabbaz
Will,
Thank you for the excellent posting. I have been reading your blog for about 3 months and I have learned a great deal. My sartorial endeavors will begin with acquiring quality shoes. However, my financial situation does not allow me to spend more than $ 250. Do you have any recommendations on shoe brands that are RTW for someone with my budget?
Thank you.
Will,
far from being able to afford custom shirts right now, I usually have my OTR ones taken in at the sides and slimmed down in the arms. This usually sorts them out, however, is there any way one can specify that the tailor take more fabric out of the back of the shirt? I find that with some of my shirts, there is a tendency for them to balloon out at the back even after being altered, especially since I wear my trousers at my true waist and not at the hip.
Parody, you should be able to find Alan Edmonds on sale in your price range and they are good value.
Shamigo, if you're spending $75 including alterations on a shirt, see mytailor the next time they are in your neighborhood.
Ruroni, armhole height is part of the quality of make but I don't think of it as fit per se.
High armholes definitely help in the mobility area.. too bad my suits aren't as mobile as my shirts.
@shamigo, even though I get MTM for pretty cheap now (thank you, Samsung corporation. Did anyone else know that they made, uhm, EVERYTHING including textiles, etc?), I was able to get some older shirts altered for about five dollars apiece at my local dry cleaners. It was easier for them since I like the look of darts, but a fair amount might be able to be reduced by just taking in the sides. Then again, these shirts had flat seams along the backs, instead of those folds along the bottom of the yoke. (Am I getting terms right?)
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