Photo: Richard Anderson
Savile Row tailor Richard Anderson is known for its tweed. And in the Northern hemisphere one of these October days will begin the time for tweed, which makes it a fair topic for discussion I should think. Tweed, that is. Not that Richard Anderson wouldn't also be a worthy topic.
It used to be that one of Anderson's specialties, the tweed overcoat, was considered just the thing for travel but I don't think that applies today. Most travel is between two city pairs, and takes place in heated conveyances. Tweed, on the other hand, is a country fabric and most tweed coats are intended to let the wearer survive an afternoon in the freezing open air. There's a disconnect between tweed and travel overcoats, in my opinion.
No, where tweed fits in perfectly is for odd jackets intended for suburban or rural wear. And the man who is considering one should think about a double breasted version like the jacket in the photo. Flapped pockets, double vents and the classic six button closing make for a handsome coat when the cloth is a nicely checked Cheviot, and it's something that you won't see on every other man on the street.
The DB tweed odd jacket also makes considerably more sense for modern travel than its overcoat relation. Dressy enough for any journey without a meeting at the end of it, the tweed DB is wrinkle resistant as well as warm enough to keep a man comfortable outdoors without an overcoat in anything short of a winter gale.
It's really an excellent choice.
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9 comments:
I have seen a few AA/Esky illustration (circa 1930s) that suggest tweed for skiing; you do not see this very often today. Why is this?
cheers!
Technical fabrics offer advantages for athletic pursuits. They may be less attractive, but they cost less and weigh less and both matter.
Great styling to that DB. The pattern is a little loud for my taste. I prefer a POW or something along those lines for a DB odd jacket. Donegal tweed is also a nice fabric for DB in my opinion.
Ohhh! Yes, please!
I love tweed odd jackets. Being in the academic profession, nothing smarts of the collegiate atmosphere more than a nicely cut tweed coat. On the other hand, academics (at least here in Chicago), can often be a very non-sartorial bunch. The horrible displays of "business casual" would drive you crazy. I reject the wholesale trend toward uninspired business casual in academics (and elsewhere for that matter), and I'm striving in my own small way to bring some style back to the college campus. I think Will offers a good example for my colleagues to follow. While sleek city-suit may be a bit much for the classroom environment, why can't academics make a better showing by putting on a finely made tweet coat now and then?
Will, I've also found that some of the lighter tweeds from Holland & Sherry are comfortable indoor attire during most of the academic year (Fall-Spring). Notably, I've started to wear a new 12oz H&S tweed coat to teach, and although currently on the warmer side, should be fine in a few more weeks. Thanks for a great website!
Just looking at that photo makes me want to undo the buttons and BREATHE.
It's beautifully cut, but the cut and style of it look just like a suit jacket -- it seems to cry out for a pair of trousers as part of a suit. However, the idea of matching trousers in this cloth is too horrible for words.
I wonder what could be done to the styling of the jacket to make it look less like part of a suit. Patch pockets definitely. Anything else?
Will,
The example jacket really does seem very city. The peak lapels in particular seem a bit much for weekends in the country. I understand they go hand in hand with the DB. Could it be toned down a bit: patch pockets, notch lapels or ...?
Love it. Beautiful cut and cloth. Just gorgeous. It's not often one sees a DB odd jacket. But, I can not see myself ever wearing such a jacket, at least in this climate.
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