Having occasion to think about blazer buttons the other day, it occurred to me that we could use more men who don't settle for brass. Oh, there are a fair number who opt for brown, and they are to be commended for their originality. Brown buttons turn the blazer into an odd jacket and make it wearable in situations where a metal buttoned coat might be over the top.
There is also the mother of pearl option, which is particularly appropriate for lightweight coats aimed at spring and summer. And, of course, solid gold as well as gilt. Personally, I think the solid gold versions too heavy as well as too tempting for the staff at the dry cleaner but gilt is a better version of brass that doesn't tarnish.
I've also seen at least one Frenchman wearing a navy coat with navy buttons. He was from an old aristocratic family which presumeably entitled him to do as he pleased and I will admit that I copied him on my next double breasted. The look may be too close to an orphaned suit jacket for some but I like it better than plain blue enamel like the center button in the photo.
Finally, so far as I know, there is the choice I made for next season's jacket, a polished sterling silver.
Any or all of the metal buttons may be engraved and/or enamelled with a symbol or coat of arms to which one has some attachment, such as fishing, golf or secret societies. The late Duke of Windsor enjoyed this practice on a number of his jackets and even some suits, but then he was born belonging to so many organizations that he probably couldn't fit all the requisite neckties on his rack and had to make other arrangements.
Irrespective of material, I think blazer buttons should have some symmetry. Three button coats and DBs with six on the front look balanced with three buttons on the sleeve. And two button jackets, or DBs with four buttons on the front, look better to my eye with two on the sleeves.
And, by the way, a man looking to refresh his look without too much expense should consider changing out the buttons on his blazer. It's an investment that pays dividends for a long time as the buttons can be moved to another coat when the current one needs replacement. Find them at Ben Silver in the U.S. or Benson & Clegg in Britain.
Saturday, October 11, 2008
An Inexpensive Wardrobe Update
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5 comments:
Why just yesterday I switched out the buttons my blazer for horn, and am very happy I did so, as brass really just isn't for me, and the black ones the store replaced them with made it look much too suit-jacket'y. Total cost was all of $25 for the buttons (at Britex in Union Square) and $5 for my local cleaners to install them. Of course Ben Silver et al have many lovely buttons, but not at anything like $25 a set!
Excellent post. Buttons are so easy to overlook, and yet provide such an opportunity for individualism and flair in dressing.
Although I understand they have discontinued them, Oxxford once used very unobtrusive matte-finished bronze buttons on their blazers; buttons which I have always found attractive.
I must admit, I had a new blue blazer just made and I had my tailor outfit it with B & E buttons (blue enamel with gold eagles) and I have never gotten so many compliments.
The blazer still has the "classic" look, but the gold/blue buttons draw your eyes allowing the casual viewer an interesting take on a classic. The odd jacket, or blue blazer, is always better suited with a little personal touch. Glad your brought this up, Will.
What a great post! It's a coincidence that I see others doing this as well.
I just picked up my wool cashmere blazer from the seamstress. The jacket is at least 8 years old and a bit worn. But it has been by my side faithfully, so I, too, opted to change the buttons from horn to metal ones. I found these dark bronze with gold plated buttons at a local button shop. They have no crest or design, but they look just like a button. That and a few minor repairs brought a whole new blazer back into my wardrobe. Total cost about $35.
I even picked up several smaller metal buttons and made them into very elegant customized double sided cufflinks. A bit tricky to work, but I've gotten so many compliments that it's always worth the 5 minute headache to put them on in the morning.
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