London's Favourbrook is a reliable source for off the shelf odd waistcoats, and that's where I picked up the yellow one that's almost in the photo some years ago. For those seeking something more visible, the company's web site offers a range of less sedate choices.
Use the bit of extra warmth from an odd waistcoat to extend the season for lightweight jackets. On display is a ten ounce worsted coat with navy buttons (brass might have been garish combined with the waistcoat) that needed some help on a fall morning. It's paired with gray flannels, brogued bluchers, a glen check pocket square and a gray and purple striped cashmere necktie.
Tuesday, October 7, 2008
An Odd Waistcoat
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6 comments:
Another good place for R.T.W. waistcoats is Pakeman (similar, but with a nicer cut).
My, how unorthodox of you? You typically don't deviate from the rules. The waistcoat really looks like a slip; it makes it look more formal to me.
Overall nice. I'm a sucker for buff colored waistcoats.
Will,
I've been having increasing difficulty deciding what to wear black shoes with. I have a pair of cap toes and a pair of brogues, but I always find myself reaching for the brown pair of shoes. Can you comment on what sort of ensemble begs for a black shoe? I only ask because I'm fairly used to seeing your navy coat/gray trousers outfit complemented with black shoes.
Shamigo, I force myself to wear black once a week whether I need to or not. That's the only way my shoe rotation makes any sense at all, as it's set up for black at least two days a week.
On the debate surrounding black and brown shoes, my understanding was that city-wear was always black, whether teamed with grey or blue trousers (suit or otherwise). Brown was considered less formal and reserved for out-of-town only. I am from the UK and I think the "rules" are more relaxed in the US, as in Italy.
Personally, I think brown shoes with a grey suit or grey slacks looks messy and would always tend towards black. Brown shoes look okay with a blue suit or slacks (so long as the shoes are not tan) but will look more casual as a result. Black shoes with a blue suit will look smarter and more formal.
On the other side, I don't like black shoes with jeans or light-coloured chinos. One ends up looking like a banker on dress-down day unless one goes for brown.
I work in the Square Mile in London so suspect my tastes err on the side of conservative!
I think sinatra's shadow on track - black shoes don't go with casual outfits, unless maybe a brogued Derby with a blue/grey based casual outfit, e.g. black jeans. Brown looks awful with a black suit and ok with grey flannel, especially with other lighter touches like a sports jacket in non -black/blue/grey tones. When I lived in Milan, and elegant Italian sports jacket (not the English Tweed country version) with elegant trousers and brown - not tan - shoes could be business wear, especially in summer or in smaller companies or towns, though usually not for lawyers.
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