
When a man needs a necktie that looks great with tweed, he could do worse than to consider wool tartan and madder silk neckties like the versions from Drake's London in the photo. Perhaps not these precise patterns mind you, since I saw them first and have them on order, but something similar.
Tartans and tweed were both popularized in Scotland, so it's no wonder they go together. Of course, if a man is to wear a tartan properly, he should confine himself to patterns that are not reserved for a family or organization that he doesn't belong to. The Black Watch, Caledonian, Hunting Stewart, and Jacobite tartans, for example, are wearable by anyone who likes the pattern these days. They are usually executed in wool, but I've seen versions in cotton madras, Irish poplin and other materials so it's just a matter of looking around for the proper combination.
And if the tartan's a bit too Scottish for a man who may have been born elsewhere, there's always the madder necktie. Madder is the tweed jacket necktie of America's Eastern universities, to the extent that anyone at an American university still wears neckties. A special gum silk is processed into muted neckties with green, chocolate, medium blue, and yellow grounds and a chalk hand that's similar to fine suede. The stuff used to be called ancient madder, but after a couple of chemical process changes to make production more environmentally sound, the ancient part of the name was dropped. Fortunately, the makers didn't try to name it modern madder.
Madder and tartan. Real tweed wearers will have neckties from both.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Neckties for Tweed
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11 comments:
Very nice! I enjoy wool challis also.
Thin or narrow neckties are great no matter their pattern. They make you look slimmer without overwhelming the whole ensemble. Throw in a fitted tweed jacket and you'll be looking James Bond goes to the country.
I am enjoying the posts and detailed information on the blog. Could you expand the focus to include Italian styles, fabrics and traditions as well? Gun clubs, fox hunts and country homes were relevant for the English aristocracy, but less so for men in North America circa 2008.
I'm personally not a fan of tartan ties - it often smacks of people trying a bit too hard to demonstrate their Scottish heritage. Madder ties, on the other hand, are wonderful.
I've wondered what would be the best to wear with tweed. I've got a really nice jacket that I had made and I usually wear muted polyester ties with it. Now, I've got to go find a cool tartan.
I was pondering on why the two non-tartan ties were madder. Madder than what? I wondered. Then it struck me that this may be a synonym for what we in Blighty call Paisley, i.e. the comma-shaped patterns so popular on Liberty print fabrics. Am I right?
Madder is the way the silk is treated and paisley is the pattern.
I am really unconvinced about these heavily patterned wool ties. I am not Scottish, so would never really wear any tartan while in England. Stripes just smack of silk to my mind, for example the school and college ties I wear. (The main striped ties I wear are a couple of school ties - standard, colours, and leavers', and the various college ties - striped, crested, and summer, so I have no need for any other ties really.)
On the other hand, wool ties just demand to be plain. A tweed suit will usually have a nice pattern, so the quintessential tie, of the style I wear often, is just a plain brown (or green) rough woollen tie. With checked trousers, there is plenty of pattern without needing a busy tie.
Paisley is classic, though. I just got another paisley handkerchief the other day.
Thank you - both for the explanation and being gracious enough not to mention that you explained that quite clearly in the post, had one read it properly.
Hi,
Great blog!
Tartan is lovely. Bought lots of it including a royal stewart wool tie to myself and a Douglas wool tie to grandfather when I was in Scotland over the summer.
Best regards
A simple plain necktie will do.
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