A Sublime Covert Coat

I learned about Cheo from one of Alan Flusser's books in the 1980's. And the first I saw of his clothes they were worn by G. Bruce Boyer, the always stylish clothing writer. As these things go, those were two pretty good recommendations.

Cheo has been making Savile Row styled men's tailored clothing in Manhattan for nearly thirty years. His house style is a natural shouldered cut with drape, and he doesn't deviate, carefully screening prospective customers for the ones who will appreciate his silhouette.


During our conversation, Cheo pointed to the overcoat samples he had on display and observed that too many men make do with raincoats all winter so he always recommends a proper coat to a new customer. His usual suggestion is the pictured covert coat, a city interpretation of the classic that's double breasted as well as minus the signature stitching at the hem and on the pocket flaps and sleeves. Cheo's make is excellent and his elegantly realized velvet collar has a contrasting texture without a color change.

I never did establish the exact price of Cheo's covert but he was shaking his head affirmatively when I asked if it wasn't around $4,000. So call it that, for a sublime interpretation of a classic coat.