Photo: LIFE It's a shame that black is the color of the tailored clothing pushed by so many retailers at young men and women who need to begin dressing professionally. After all, despite the tens of thousands of black suits purchased each year by young women who incorrectly think their sex is born with some innate understanding as to how to dress, black tailored clothing isn't seen on an elegant women before six o'clock, when her black dress becomes chic for cocktails, dinner and the theater. Nor on most men either.
Now whenever I repeat this assertion I hear howls of protest and demands for my rationale from the offended (you know who you are). And to them I say that the reason is simple. Black combines badly with most colors, and the parts of the spectrum that it complements, such as white, are less than complementary on those of us with lower contrast complexions in the light of day. In other words, black usually makes the wearer look bad.
There is an exception or two, for black is an excellent choice for light-reflecting mohair evening clothes. But even the dark jackets of formal and semi-formal day wear should be charcoal gray. And, at night, many better evening clothes are midnight blue, like director Steven Spielberg's bespoke dinner jacket in the photo. That's because midnight blue looks blacker than black under artificial light while most black has a greenish cast to it.
And so I say, reserve black for accessories such as dress shoes, belts, neckties, homburgs, small leathergoods and the dress of the woman on your arm in the evening. Eschew it for shirts, trousers and lounge suits.
Don't misuse black.
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20 comments:
Will,
I'm writing this as a 27 year old from Scotland and have enjoyed your blog for a number of months now. It's worth noting that not many of my peers wear suits well (if at all!) in this country - in fact, a good suit is often seen as a 'luxury' or frippery that can even work against one in business dealings.
I'm curious as to your arguments against black for day wear though - I have a number of black suits I wear quite regularly for work (though I might add, all have a very subtle stripe or detail in the cloth) and find that I often get complimented on my clothing.
I tend to go for a plain shirt, perhaps white, with a stripe and a white square with a nice tie to complete things. I agree that it is very easy to appear funereal but done correctly, I think it can compliment an athletic figure and make the wearer look very smart. Would you consider a black suit to always be inappropriate in a day setting?
Gylen
I like my black slacks. And I would say Tiger Woods likes his. Well at least on Sundays.
Will,
I'm 24 and still learning how to dress well. You're blog is very helpful and I read it daily. I see some men wearing black suits with light brown belts and shoes. I always kind of liked the look, in the same way I like dark blue and brown, but I'm under the impression that it's not an acceptable combination. Correct? Am I insane for thinking it looks good?
"Black combines badly with most colors," but in most shops they will tell you exactly the opposite: that black goes with practically anything, even blue!
Amen, Will! Living in the vicinity of Manhattan, I am surrounded by fashion victims of all ages festooned from head to toe in black. There is even a chain of stores named Black and White that sells only clothing in those two non-colors.
This mode of attire applies not only to suits and dresses, but even extends to more casual clothing such as sweaters, casual shirts, etc. After being struck with how boring it is, the next thing I too invariably notice is how unflattering it is for most wearers. Beautiful young people look least bad. Those who are not both or either can be grim.
This trend evidently began on the continent perhaps 15 to 20 years ago, where at least the weather can be used as an excuse. It’s been recycled by so many rip-off, so-called designers that it has now made its way down the food chain to low-end department stores. Hopefully, oblivion cannot be far behind.
Well said Will - young men especially seem very tentative about dressing "smartly", or looking interested in clothes, so go for a monochrome look as a smart-enough-but-not-trying option. My complexion means I look like death warmed up in white or black. And in the combination just like death.
Gylen - as for the compliments you receive, as you yourself say your peers don't really wear a suit*, so some of the compliments are based on seeing you in a suit, and coordinated as well. If you were to wear a little colour in there the compliments - especially from women - would probably increase.
You could follow Will's advice - start by choosing a coloured tie which picks up the stripe detail in the suit, for example.
*I well remember the feeling of an "alien abroad" when I was wearing a 3-piece suit & had to cut through Huddersfield market hall!
Gylen, I didn't write that black was inappropriate. But, except on some men with black hair, it's never as good looking as another choice.
If a man does wear it, patterns such as stripes are best.
Will,
Thanks for the reply - all mine have a stripe and I have indeed got black hair! I guess this ties in with thoughts I have read elsewhere here about how a man should dress appropriately for his own build, appearance etc.
Paul - You're absolutely correct. I generally try and liven them up with a coloured or patterned tie otherwise I feel one can look a little like an on-duty Sommelier!
Gylen
Will;
I actually have a black suit, but I only wear it to funerals--which I seem to be going to far more often as I age.
What do you wear to funerals? Is a black tie on a typical business suit adequate?
Charcoal suit, white shirt, black necktie and black shoes. Or a stroller.
Dear Sirs,
I think Will's "black" argument is a good one. I have begun acquiring a fair number of MTM suits, one of which is black. I'm not sure why I went that route, but I did, and I'm going to have to live with it. As Gylen (and Will concurs), dressing it up a bit with a lighter/patterned shirt and good tie/square combination can go a long way.
Nevertheless, the black suit is quite easily the least worn of my suits, as it does, unfortunately, look out of place the most during business hours.
Here in Japan many wear black suits and even worse, black blazers. They don't realize how badly they look in daytime, even if they have high contrast features. What I really don't like, either during the day or night, is the all dark look.
I am 23, just starting to get into 'proper' clothing. I will not be seen in black again. I spent my teenage years on black t-shirts and black track pants, I have no intention of wearing that colour during the day ever again.
Having said that I almost miss the days when black was de-rigeur amongst teenages, as opposed to days rainbow coloured beachware in a city 90 minutes drive from the nearest coast.
Great post Will ... and I love midnight blue as a formal wear fabric color of choice.
Also, great to see younger (than me...I'm 48) seeking and appreciating the advice you offer.
Regarding what to wear to a funeral....I'll attempt to paste in a link to a photo of Tom Wolfe leaving William F. Buckley's funeral. It may not work Will, so I'll email it to you directly as well.
....the link didn't work!
Black...I own a black camel hair sportcoat and admittedly, it's the most difficult thing to coordinate and it in no way complements my coloring. Alan Flusser's black cashmere sportcoat and tattersal vest ensemble that is in his recent customer mailing looks "snappy" but it's not for me.
Great post, Will!
I live in Northern Europe, not too far from Stockholm. Black is seen on everyone, everywhere around here. It's truly horrible - if you walk around in Stockholm, at least 70% of people have predominatly black clothing. In the stores, all you see is a "sea of black".
This has been going on for at least two years now - enough already! Swedes (as most Scandinavians) are incredibly conformist, and soooo afraid to "stick out" from the crowd.
Another thing I'd like to see a post on is the importance of wearing a tie. Over here, the fashion for businessmen seem to be a half-sloppy suit (black, usually), together with an dull shirt (white, light gray or light blue). To this, black belt and (usually) low-quality black shoes. Add your pale skin and fair hair, and yes - most of them look awful!
Somehow, they missed the fact that the tie is one of the few ways a businessman can add some spice to his business "uniform".
If you go back and look at the blog posted not too long ago - "Wear a Suit" - what a difference between Douglas Fairbanks Jr. and Tommy Tune! Wear a tie!
Will, I appreciate giving a rational explanation against daytime black. Usually when ask people, they spout off some ridiculous reference to tradition, or that the community just "doesn't do that." This is a very reasonable point.
I have been considering a MTM dark navy tux for a few months. How do you feel about a pale blue shirt with a black bow tie? Should the shirting be white?
Here, here!
And yet, many people consider khakis and a polo shirt appropriate for funerals these days.
Will,
I don't pay attention to everything John Mallory wrote in his book, Dress for Success, but one thing I recall him writing is not to wear black ties as business-wear. I have three solid black ties - grenadine, knit and silk. I am ambivalent about wearing them to the office but perhaps in the summer I'll give it a try.
Goths be advised !
Little black cocktail dresses look pretty good - but not on me of course.
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