There is nothing better looking to my mind than a strongly patterned suit like any of the ones in the Esquire illustration, but suits like these should be the final stage in the development of a man's wardrobe. Starting out, a man's suit wardrobe should contain exclusively neutral patterns in fall and spring weights until there are at least a dozen, and in temperate climates as many as twenty, in his closet. For the first suits in the wardrobe are going to be worn repeatedly and, beyond the general impression of fit and appropriateness, should make little impression on the minds of those a man sees regularly. After all, when the suit is remembered instead of the man the wearer cannot be considered well dressed.
Failure to fill out a wardrobe with neutrals is probably the most common error made by the young, who in their understandable desire to look outstanding can forget that they must also dress the other 364 days of the year. Whether a prominently checked tweed or a cream linen, a memorable suit seen several times gives others the impression that the wearer has nothing else to wear.
So start with neutrals. But once there is a variety of neutral clothing in the closet, a couple of strongly patterned choices for each season take a man's dressing game up to a new level.
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Start With Neutrals
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6 comments:
In other words, one can only dress to be noticed when they have money.
One will be noticed in a perfectly fitted charcoal suit, worn with dark brown oxfords, a blue shirt, a black grenadine necktie and a white linen pocket square. But that suit is neutral.
As a young guy still in school but entering a profession where a suit is the industry-standard, I have been doing my best to slowly acquire handsome, yet subtile suits. Why Mr. Chatsworth is correct--that it's tough to dress in MTM or Bespoke without a bit of excess change--it can be done, if done smart.
Besides new suits, the one thing I am always finding myself wanting more of is good ties, pocket squares, and socks. I could be wrong, but those three accessories are a great way to change up an average gray or charcoal suit. Furthermore, adding different types of braces or belts to the mix allows for some fun change, as well.
Nevertheless, as someone who loves the fit of a well-made (at this point MTM) suit, I am finding that it's going to be journey to get what I want, not merely a trip to the local Brooks Brothers.
Will, do you think that a one button charcoal is acceptable as a first suit, or should one go for a two or three button first?
Wengerian,
The single button suit is a fashion device. It is not traditional classic, and it will always be quirky.
I'd stick to the two-button suit. Three is fine, but I find it to be rather juvenile. Younger gents wore them, and always badly. It's just my taste. Some men, however, look very good in three button suits. A 3/2 roll is even better, but not for the first suit.
Thanks, CG.
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