In warm weather, all tones of beige are appropriate for business wear. But what of brown, of which it was once said that it wasn't worn in town? Well, I blame Al Gore's adoption of the color for the election of George W. Bush in that famously close U. S. election. But lets's not hold recent events against it.
Indeed, brown is a very good look on men like the fellow in the Esquire illustration, who look washed out in gray and worse in many blues. These gentlemen have what is known as a muted complexion, made up of dark blond to mid-brown hair, eyebrows and lashes, light to olive skin and eyes in blended tones of brown, green, gray or blue. Brown tones are the easiest for them to wear.
For the rest of us, brown is a useful color when a suit is required outside a city center or in the suburbs. And brown cloth looks good with black shoes, something that can't be said of many men's suitings. But for me, living as I do in a sunny climate, I prefer beige. Indeed, spring will find me with four tan suits in my wardrobe to just one brown.
And that's what I have to say about brown.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
What of Brown?
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12 comments:
Black shoes with a brown suit should never be attempted - are you serious with this post? Just because an outdated drawing may show this does not mean that it works in the present.
As one of those who looks better in brown than in grey or navy, I appreciate the post. My difficulty is more with texture or pattern than color. Brown looks best in more countrified cloths like tweeds or more colorful POW checks. I dislike brown pinstriped suits and have found only one very dark brown worsted that doesn't look terribly cheap.
Since you have posted before about upgrading a wardrobe using only grey suiting or blue suiting, I wonder what you think about doing so with brown? What sorts of suits would you include?
Oh, and I do like the black shoes (AE captoes) with my dark brown suit for business. Softens the blow of the brown suit, I guess.
I agree with Percy. I would never wear a Black shoe with a brown suit. Dark brown or even oxblood or a deep burgundy would be ok but never black. I have a beautiful Dark Brown suit with rust pinstripes. I love the suit and get many compliments when I wear it. I think Brown is a tough suit for everyone to wear but it is a nice alternative.
I am attaching a scene from the 1948 movie, Rope, in which a handsome blond man wears a brown suit with solid black tie. I can't see his shoes but i am imagining well polished black lace-ups. It is one of may favorite change of pace looks.
For those interested, fast forward to 1:50 into the movie.
In generally I'd agree with Percy and Tony: black shoes and a brown suit looks rather haphazard and should be avoided. There may be a few exceptions, with a very dark brown suit, maybe veering towards the charcoal spectrum, and pair a black calf Derby/Bluchers being one of them - black Oxford shoes' formality would not go well with the brown suit, but brogues could be an alternative. And oxblood shoes - one of those Americanisms deserving of a much wider following - are of course a good alternative to brown shoes. The gentleman in the picture wearing a brown suit would raise my eyebrows in a City setting, but for wiling away his time a luxurious country club awaiting pre-dinner drinks he seems to be very well dressed - just the shoes....*sigh*
MSM, you may not like brown pinstripes but brown chalk-striped flannel is a great cloth.
I've seen good looking worsted in nailhead and glen check patterns. Add a solid brown flannel and you've got enough for a season once you put some blue suits next to your browns.
Be careful to choose only browns with a green cast. The versions with red tones don't do anything for anyone.
Great article and illustration! Thanks, Will!
I have an ambivalent relationship with brown. On the one hand I’m fond of it because of its rich variety, association with the country and because of it place as the keynote color for much of the great clothing from the ‘30’s as depicted in Apparel Art illustrations.
On the other hand, I’m what Carole Jackson would have termed a Winter, and can look dreadful in the wrong brown. And it’s a near thing. While higher colored brown containing some red and yellow are generally best for me, they have to be mixed properly. A rich chocolate brown will generally be flattering. Flat browns normally don’t work, but a charcoal brown sometime can. Browns are so subtle.
Choosing the right accessories is critical. Blue is an inherently flattering choice for shits, and one that will go surprisingly well with many browns. Yellows and ecrus work for me too, and are a natural complement to many browns. So even if my choice of suit or jacket might be problematic, the right accessory will often mitigate the effect and result in an appealing synergy!
Will. Another great pic. I think it was Hardy Amies who advised to go for greenish cast brown over reddish cast brown. He also advised that dark gray suits and dark brown suits should be mixtures of black and brown or gray threads, not threads with mixed dyes. However, I don't understand his advice of browns with a green cast. Brown is a shade of orange, and orange is red+yellow, with yellow being red+green. So it seems all browns have more red than green in them. Does he mean browns with a higher green content than others? In practical application, are the shades of browns that are acceptable charcoal, chocolate, coffee, taupe, khaki, and beige.
Beyond complexion I think the key to wearing brown suiting, like most suiting, is getting the weight and in the case of brown, the shade right for the season. Lighter weights and lighter shades in spring and summer, heavier weights and darker shades in fall and winter. This is particularly true in 4 season climes.
Now you are on my colouring! That description of complexion IS me, & I do wear a bit of brown.
I always used to think white shirts looked awkward with a brown suit, but this posting by Will made me change my mind;
http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2008/09/seasonal-changeover-begins.html
I can't wear white shirts, but as Tim said above a blue shirt would be a terrific option here.
Great debate about brown. I have to agree about the complexion and hair color: the right brown suit can really bring out the best in some men.
As far as city wear, or in a very rigid business setting, I'd say wear it shamelessly only if your the boss. You'd look either too good or horridly out of place if not.
In any case, I usually wear my POW dark brown summer suit with bordeaux shoes (wine, maroon, cordovan, oxblood or however the color is called.) They are quite intriguing.
Winter brown flannels,however, are always a struggle for me to get just right, but when I do, what a joy!
If I could add one more thing about brown in a professional setting...
I think lawyers can pull it off better than most other professions. It just seem to fit certain situations better than gray or blue.
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