About a third of the men at the San Francisco Symphony's New Year's Eve Gala were wearing evening clothes the other night, and to my eye too many of them had forgotten one of the basic principles of dress. And that is the one about accessories.
You see, it's a waste of budget to acquire any item of tailored clothing unless it's going to be properly accessorized. Elegant accessories can make an inexpensive garment look good, but the best tailored clothing will often leave a poor impression when the accompaniments are not up to par.
Shoes were the most obvious shortfall. Imagine my dismay at the sight of dinner jackets worn with brass buckled kiltie loafers. Indeed, no more than half the evening clothes in sight were accompanied by well polished black oxfords and they are the minimum standard for that dress.
Men who care that they are properly attired should own a complete set of accompaniments for black tie before taking that show on the road. If the kit is missing a piece or two, wear something less formal but complete.
It's a basic principle.
Friday, January 2, 2009
A Basic Principle
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12 comments:
Will, can I ask where you get your images from? They are inspiring. I assume they are old Esquire or Apparel Arts pictures, but where do you get them? Is it the Esquire Encyclopedia you recommended a while back as one of the top style books?
Many thanks for your help
Simon
Will,
maybe they just wanted to show their scottish origins.
:)
Simon, as you suspect they are AA or Esquire images that come from nowhere in particular. I've been collecting them for years.
The Encyclopedia is very useful in many ways but not for its images which are usually downsized or reproduced in black and white.
Thanks Will, I'll have to get collecting.
Simon
I started a threat a while back about the folks at the LA symphony and their mismatched formal attire. It was laughable. Tails and cummerbunds all around.
Will, did vests outnumber cumberbunds or vice versa? At the party we attended oddly colored and or patterned vests were de rigueur.
I wonder if anyone watched the New Years Eve Symphony from Lincoln Center in New York. The director might have been a great musician, but he was wearing a black double breasted tuxedo with white tie accessories---white bow, white vest and a shirt that looked as if it was for a full dress suit. He certainly should know better than that.
I appreciate your comments on the lack of appropriate accessories in this regard. I enjoy ASW and find inspiration frequently.
However, due to an accident I am required to wear special shoes and am not able to find, short of custom, proper shoes to wear with formalwear. Thus wear a pair of captops which I usually have professionally polished. Best I can pull off.
Will,
Happy New Year.
What type of waistcoat is that? Similar to the one used in morning dress (i.e. linen)?
Eck
Will, would you say that in the picture the gentleman is missing a carnation on his lapel? Or is it not expected on that kind of attire?
The vest is probably linen. A carnation is optional, particularly with a pocket square.
Sadly, conductors wearing unfortunate versions of formal dress appears to be a trend. Our NY eve conductor was wearing formal trousers with something that looked like a black square tailed shirt jacket.
Is that buff with evening wear? Daring stuff.
The last time I wore black tie, I was feeling a bit under-dressed with polished black cap-toes...until I saw all the bluchers and loafers.
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