Sunday, January 11, 2009

Getting Clothes that Fit

Photo: Life

I spent about an hour with a man in a final fitting the other day. He was frowning with concentration like the actor Gregory Peck in the photo as the tailor marked trouser cuffs, jacket sleeves, and assorted adjustments on several suits. Fittings of course are the only way a man can have clothes that fit, and fit should be the principal goal that anyone has for their clothes.

Men who buy ready to wear clothing that doesn't quite fit should seriously consider spending a bit less on their clothes and a bit more on their tailoring. That's because a man in inexpensive clothes that fit him is going to look better than a man wearing expensive ready to wear garments with a big ripple behind his jacket neck, sleeves that hang down to his knuckles and extra trouser cloth puddling on his shoes. And, unfortunately, ill-fitting clothes have become the norm. Too many clothing sales people know much less than they should about the products they sell and leave fit to the customer, who usually doesn't understand it either.

This general lack of information or plain disinterest in fit seems to continue in store alterations departments. In-store tailors, who may sometimes be the only people in the process that understand what the clothes are supposed to look like on the customer, have to live with the store's salespeople every day. It is just human nature for them to share the salesperson's desire to get a sale rung up and out the door.

So what can a man do to get fit off the rack? He needs to take responsibility for buying the right size in the first place (the key in my opinion is to stick with a maker once it is established that that maker's clothes are complementary). And then take the stuff to an independent alterations tailor, preferably an older European from somewhere in the south who has been doing the work for thirty or forty years (racial profiling works in this case).

Now I can almost hear the readers thinking to themselves that this is not an easy fix, and they are correct. Unfortunately, there are no easy fixes. Getting clothes that fit takes more work every year, and there will be failures along the way.

But the end result is worth the effort.

16 comments:

A4 said...

As my budget, for the time being, imposes severe limitations on my wardrobe, and I will have to wait at least a bit more before I am able to order my first bespoke suit AND pay my taxes (fleeing to France is, of course, also an option, but it would be too cliché for my liking), clever RTW purchases + alterations, is, alas, the way.
I cannot agree more with Will regarding in-store tweaking. Recently I hunted down a decent, gray 130s suit, but the in-store clerk who offered to take measurements for alterations looked about 17. I ran & spent some time looking for a trustworthy alterations tailor in my town (found one - she's European, since I'm in Europe. So I should be good, no? Hmmm). Picking up the suit next week. Fingers crossed.

Micah said...

I moved to London from Salt Lake City two years ago. I've replaced my entire wardrobe with Saville Row and Jermyn Street clothes that I've bought--for the most part--second hand. One of the first things I did was find a good tailor who adjusts everything I buy and who offers advice. It's been a very good system and education.

NSK said...

This post brings up good points, but I'd emphasize that the wearer - not the tailor - is the most important person in the equation. That is, the wearer needs to know what he's looking for in a particular garment, and then his tailor should be able to execute that look with the garment.

Example: I bought an off-the-rack suit from a fashion-forward store. The twentysomething Asian shopgirl was helpful and friendly, but she admitted that though she didn't know much about men's clothing, she did know how to pin. I put on each piece separately, and had her pin and mark as I instructed. The jacket and trousers went out to the tailor, and came back note-perfect.

The point is that the tailor - or shopgirl, in this case - need not be an "older European from somewhere in the south who has been doing the work for thirty or forty years." With a little experience and guidance, any motivated person can learn to pin. At that point, it's up to the tailor to execute those marks into a wearable, cohesive garment.

Finally, I don't think it's reasonable to demand that the measurer (or shopgirl, or clothier) also to be the tailor. Business-operating considerations usually preclude such an arrangement.

Youngin said...

I think what I find most concerning on this topic of fit, is Bespoke. After spending some on London Lounge and the likes, trying to pick my first Bespoke experience. Some of the posted Savile Row products frankly scare me. I feel that the suits look nothing short of miserable and cost north of 3K. They should understand fit more than any of us!

Arctic Penguin said...

Indeed... I credit/blame this blog, among others, for an occasionally insufferable increase in my ability to discern poor fitting garments on myself and others. Not only did this necessitate the replacement of a good deal of my own wardrobe, but likewise it has increased the number of times I have to prevent myself from cringing whenever I'm out about in town or riding the subway - the pooling trousers about the ankles! Oh, the trousers! I can't bear to get started on the jackets... or the ties... ok, I'll stop there. Great photo, though. He looks like someone who knows exactly what he wants. I'll have to try that expression out the next time I get a suit made.

And, if I dare, a slightly related question: when assessing the details of a suit, is there a sure fire way to know hand stitched from machine stitched? I imagine machine stitching would appear much more symmetrical and perfectly spaced, and even good hand-stitching has a sort of rough, organic "imperfection" to it.. or have I simply not seen good hand-stitching? I ask in the interest of examining the collar and lining of my suit jackets. (They are canvassed, I checked.)

roger said...

For me the key is to find a superior alterations
tailor. I am very fussy about fit-several tailors
have flattered me by calling me "precise". Some who were recommended proved inadequate. What has worked for me is to go to the best high-end mens shop in one's locality and ask if they use an outside tailor for alterations whom they would recommend. I live in the SF Bay Area and am very happy with the one associated with Wilkes Bashford. When I lived in Chicago some twenty years ago.I used another tailor found the same way.

marc said...

Can you recommend a good tailor in San Francisco?

Jonathan said...

It seems like most of the comments here are referring to suits, do you guys think it's worthwhile to have items like buttondown sport shirts or two button polo shirts altered? If so, how difficult is such an alteration, and what are the key things I should ask the tailor to do? I have a problem with normal or classic fit shirts being too tight in the chest, but a size up in a slim or custom fit from the same label is too large around the waist (i.e. not slim enough).

A4 said...

Jonathan - regarding the shirts, I would say that it is not worth the trouble, as for the price of an off the rack one + alterations you should be able to order one made to measure...

roger said...

SF Area Tailor(s):

I use Bob Stankovic in Menlo Park,
He also does work for Wilkes in Palo alto
His telephone is:

Bob Stankovic
650-323-9614

Also, about 7 or 8 years ago I had some good work done in San Francisco by Peter Panos. He's on Geary near Union Square. I do not have his telephone # handy.

Stay away from Jon Minor,also near UnionSquare.He managed to ruin a pair of slacks I had purchased in London. It was a complex alteration, so he might be adequate for routine ones.

K said...

A question for Mr Arctic Penguin: if you happen to be in Seoul, and I could beg a few moments of your time, could you recommend a good tailor there? If so, please respond to seouldaze@gmail.com
Thank you

marc said...

Thanks Roger!

Richard said...

Jonathan and A4, regarding shirts it is indeed better and often cheaper to have them made to measure, but sometimes there are exceptions. I recently picked up a few van Laacks and an extraordinarily reduced price in some rarer patterns, and - this was a classic menswear shop with experienced staff - had them altered, especially the sleeve length and the waist, at reasonable cost. It worked out very well.

madetm said...

I couldn't agree more with this post. I bought a suit at Daffy's and plugged $80 worth of tailoring into it. The first time around the tailor did not get the jacket right but when I brought it back he pinned it perfectly.

The end result in cost was STILL less than $200 and the suit is going to look amazing.

I hope to one day buy bespoke, but cannot on my budget right now which is why I really love this post.

I will be sharing the suit results on my blog this weekend:

www.madetm.wordpress.com

Thanks,
Dennis Cahlo

Irid said...

Hi Will,
I would like to ask your opinion. Is it a fit problem, when a man moves his arms (upwards or sideways) and the chest of the jacket opens widely, while at the same time also the lapels pop out and expose huge holes on the sides? An example could be this video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vQ7wQ80Aik
at around 2:50-3:00. Not that I have anything against Obama, it's just that I also have a jacket that does the same.

Will said...

Irid, when a man lifts his arms as Obama did a properly fitted jacket should move vertically while the chest opening remains roughly constant.

 
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