Saturday, January 3, 2009

Iconic Clothing: The Cream Linen Suit

Photo: Esquire

I thought it might be interesting to periodically post photos of what I consider iconic items of clothing. I think of iconic items as those that every man might have, but most wouldn't dare. And here is the first of them: the cream linen suit as worn by artist Richard Merkin.

This particular rendition is slightly flawed in that the trousers are uncuffed, a minor sartorial sin with a double breasted lounge suit. On the other hand, the jacket sleeves are cuffed, and that is a masterstroke in this context.

Mr. Merkin, one of New York's foremost flaneurs in his man about town days, is particularly well turned out in brown slip-on kilties, green socks, gray necktie, gray shirt with a very elegant white club collar worn pinned, and a pink carnation.

Thanks to reader Johnny for the source of the photo.

8 comments:

Johnny said...

It's from a feature story Mr. Merkin wrote about the contents of his closets in the Nov. 1990 GQ, along numerous photos of his NYC apartment. It's probably my favorite piece from the days when GQ was worth reading, and it's well worth getting; a copy will probably turn up on eBay eventually.

Johnny said...

Oh, and the suit looks like cotton seersucker in the larger, more focused magazine photo, but I could be wrong.

initials CG said...

A cream linen suit is hard to pull off even when it is a simple 2-button notch... I feel like if I'm not careful I come off looking like a South American drug lord wannabe. So I sadly push it aside too often in favor of lighter grays or tans for the summer. Pity...should've gone into another line of work.

Still, Merkin can pull it off...

Thegrouchyman said...

vincent nicolosi is one of the last great tailors in america...http://www.esquire.com/ESQ0905LASTTAILORS_192

This suit that Mr.Merkin is wearing is absolutely gorgeous. Love the green socks and the loafers. The hats in the background is a visual treat.

willowbend1720 said...

Will-

Would you mind doing a piece on cuffed-uncuffed jacket suit sleeves?

This has always interested me. I'm curious to hear a little about.

Always an avid reader,

Z. Gould

p.s. Also interested to hear your opinion on engraved engine-turned belt buckles.

Will said...

Engine turned belt buckles are not to my taste. YMMV.

There's not much to say about turnback jacket cuffs. I was reminded of them years ago when I saw them on Ian Fleming. They're an Edwardian detail that I think makes a nice change of pace, particularly on a dinner jacket.

DJ or lounge suit, the rest of the garment should be very restrained so the whole thing isn't overdone.

dandiacal said...

Actually it is a seersucker with a very fine soft pink striping, paired with cornflower blue widely striped shirt and a tightly woven macclesfield tie. I have an original copy of the article signed by Mr. Merkin.

Will said...

Seersucker? Oh well, that's a scan for you. Wrong photo for the post but the thought still stands.

 
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