A reader wrote asking about paddock coats the other day and I thought a couple of Apparel Arts illustrations might be of general interest. The paddock, shown on the right, is a traditional design for a formal overcoat, one that I've never seen on the street. It would have to be made bespoke today.
There are several unusual features to the paddock's design, including the pleated rear vents and the button stance.
Men in cold weather countries that see themselves attending a series of formal daytime affairs in the coming years might consider it, but only if they have a tailor who owns one of the nineteenth century tailoring references that illustrate how to cut and sew one.
Thanks to Ed Tuttee for pointing me to the visuals.
Monday, January 26, 2009
The Paddock Coat
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Posts
12 comments:
What a beautiful coat. I cannot say I ever saw one on the street either, and certainly not in the New York City subway.
Thanks very much, Will. I am the one who asked the question. I never had heard of it until I read about "the elegant but now extinct Paddock Coat" in Nicholas Antongiovani's book, "The Suit." It is indeed a beautiful coat.
You cannot imagine how much I love that coat. It would be not a big surprise to see that coat relaunch now that we see "old clothes" back in our main streets.
My regards Will
Burberry Prorsum had a coat at Barney's this past season. It looked very similar it had the same button stance. No pleated vents from what I can remember. I did try it on and thought the button stance unflattering. It was relatively thin and the price almost knocked me unconscious.
Thomas Mahon makes a very nice one, I think. Here's the article:
http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000212.html
I would love to make one of these coats for a client. I really enjoy making unique custom clothing. The cut and function of this coat looks great. However it would likely take 6 or 7 weeks and by that time we would be out of the overcoat season. Perhaps this Autumn.
My Best,
Jeff Collins
Professional Haberdasher
http://www.MyHaberdasher.com
Some time ago, you had a post on Pres. Kennedy showing him wearing a paddock coat. It was described as a coat (for a suit or an odd coat) that had a high first button and low second button. It is designed to have both buttons closed. Is this a different type of paddock coat?
Andrew, great question and yes, this is an overcoat style and the Kennedy post was about a jacket style. I'm wearing a version of it today.
Will, that is NOT a paddock coat:
http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8214
A body coat should have knife pleats at the back, unlike the rear view on the overcoat shown. An alternative style for the back of the Albert top frock is discussion in the LL thread.
This style of overcoat is really only suitable for morning dress. The minimum requirement is a morning coat, if not a frock coat. Some Edwardian texts state that it also become acceptable with evening full dress ie white tie.
I had forgotten that impressive piece of research Sator, proving Apparel Arts wrong about the name.
The illustration does answer Steve's original question as it was this coat that Antongiavanni was writing about.
I never had heard of it until I read about "the elegant but now extinct Paddock Coat" in Nicholas Antongiovani's book, "The Suit."
Very informative, thank you.
Post a Comment