Photo: LifeThe clothing genius of Gianni Agnelli lies not in the relatively radical cut of his suit. Rather, it is the combination of light grays in his necktie and jacket at a time when a man's business dress was typically a charcoal suit with a white shirt and a charcoal tie. In other words, an even more monochromatic combination than Agnelli's brother is wearing in the photo.
As the photo illustrates, complex color combinations are not necessary for an elegant look. Fit, styling and texture are more than enough.
Though I wish he was wearing a pocket square.
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9 comments:
Now would be a good time to thank Initials CG for his January 28th observation about Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn in Charade. I rented Charade yesterday before the Super Bowl and enjoyed the movie very much. I cannot believe I had not seen it before. But, yes, Grant looked nice in his gray tie and blue suit and white shirt. Very elegant, indeed. I have a silver grenadine from Paul Stuart. I will be on the look-out for a nice solid gray tie. Thank you Will and Initials CG.
Frankly, I do not like either of the looks portrayed. The DB suit is a 4-1 which I never was a fan of. I don't mind the tie and shirt combo, but I think the suit texture is not quite right for the tie itself. As for the other pose, I can't understand why he would put his hands in his coat pocket? Is it cold, if so, use your pants pockets or wear an overcoat.
Just for the sake of it, I've gone to visit the Lingotto building in Turin, on the roof of which this picture was probably taken. Agnelli was a Man.
I have noticed that you are very partial to double-breasted suits. I personally am not a fan, then again I am only 21 years old.
Aren't 1 and 2 button suits the ultimate in fashion now for my age range?
I like this photo very much. I think it shows how a man with gray hair looks very good in a gray tone suit. It just frames the face. While Umberto (or is it his son?) looks quite good in a no frills elegant blue suit and dark tie. This frames his face between the suit/tie and his dark hair quite nicely.
Hands in the pocket is a tough call. Still working on that one, but I tend to put them all over the place.
John - glad you liked the film! Wish more women dressed like Audrey. It was a great period for Givenchy and women's wear IMO.
Last saturday I had in my hands a seven fold necktie with the same pattern than the one Gianni Agnelli is wearing in the photo. Just a slightly darker shade of gray. I did not buy it, but I will think it twice. Do you think it´s a good option with a tweed sport coat?
Hi Will,
Thanks for the summary. Your sartorial observations are consistently keen.
The more I study Italian tailoring, the more I notice subtle approaches in compariso to English. For instance, I've observed, what seemingly is, curved darts on coats made in Firenze that angle forward as opposed to the commonly used vertical darts.
Could you comment on the primary function of this non-vertical dart?
Agnelli is an interesting combination of stylistic understatement and radical divergence.
I love the Fit, styling and texture of these suits,pretty classy but like it :)
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