It does not seem like I met with Thomas Mahon of English Cut just yesterday morning, but that might have something to do with the midnight flight I took to New York some hours later, and the resulting zombie state of mind that was mine on Wednesday. Lack of sleep will do that to a fellow, particularly when he is meeting four tailors in five days.
Thomas made what we hope are final adjustments on the mid-gray fresco double breasted that was fitted in the fall. The collar needed work and, rather inexplicably, there were no vents in what was supposed to be a side vented jacket. But all will be made well and hopefully before the end of warm weather.
I am still learning the timing of ordering from Thomas. There doesn't seem to be any need to order when he is in town, as he won't be cutting cloth until not terribly long before his visit following this one. And any items ordered with the intention of fitting at that visit are unlikely to be completed until some months afterwards. So where I had been ordering spring cloth in the fall and fall cloth in the spring, I have shifted to ordering fall cloth in the fall and spring cloth in the spring in the hope that the finished clothes will arrive in time for their intended season.
If that makes no sense blame it on lack of sleep.
Thursday, March 26, 2009
If This is Tuesday, It Must Be English Cut
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11 comments:
Curious.
I have always been told that a jacket without vents cannot be modified to became a single or double vented one.
I am afraid Thomas will have to work hard on that jacket.
Greetings from Spain.
Your commitment to English tailors is off the charts. But I scratch my head over it, frankly. Tremendously long waits and surprise oversights could be drastically reduced by using people in the US. There are several in New York for sure.
Fran, if the jacket can't be modified it's the tailor's problem rather than mine.
Scott, Peter Harvey gives me a two month turnaround from stage to stage and that's fine with me. He gets twice as much work from me as anyone else.
But I've had the same oversights from tailors in New York who charged me more for the privelige. It's part of the bespoke process.
The venting is an oversight I would hope would be caught long before presenting to the customer.
Maybe Thomas has over extended himself.
If you find a good tailor that can make a suit that fits, why are you still going with so many different tailors. Especially if they aren't getting the items to you at the time that you need them. Are you saying that you have to order a suit one year in advance to have it for the proper season. I am one that could never be happy waiting a year for a suit that I may change my mind on later on. i also am very particular about the cut of my trousers and if I have someone cutting them just the way I like them I would be very hesitant to try someone else at such a great expense.
Tony, I like Thomas's double breasteds. I like the way Peter Harvey enjoys implementing my sometimes odd requests. And experience has taught me to give but one order at a time to a tailor.
Two is not too many. Three might be pushing it.
What does "Fresco" mean regarding the fabric of the suit that is being discussed?
Could you please let me know the fresco cloth you are using for this DB? Many thanks!
Fresco is a type of cloth with a high twist weave designed to allow air circulation so it wears cooler in warm weather.
This particular one is made by J&J Minnis.
What fabric # are you using for this suit? Many thanks!
Newtrane, it is 0521.
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