The heir to one of the great names in clothing for the American establishment is a talkative tailor with a collection of rare fabrics. Paul Winston is his name, of Winston Tailors and Chipp2, Chipp being one of last century's clothing pillars of the American establishment along with Brooks Brothers and Tripler.
I was at Winston's 11 East 44th Street atelier in pursuit of one of those rare fabrics, the printed wool challis in the photograph. It is a light cloth that was printed by Evans before they closed years ago, and I had been looking for a piece for quite some time. The weight makes challis just about perfect for an odd vest that will be worn in the temperate weather where I live. 
Winston Tailors may be the best remaining place on earth for commissioned articles in the Ivy League tradition of sportswear, from patch madras to embroidered corduroy trousers. The very nice Shetland safari jacket in the photo, sewn from a piece of cloth woven by a mill that has been defunct for decades, is a conservative example.
At the other extreme, a man looking for a necktie printed with one of former President Lyndon B. Johnson's best-known sayings - testiculos tene: capiuntur mens et cor - will find it here.
Monday, March 30, 2009
A Pillar of the Establishment
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8 comments:
I will have to admit I understand why Mr. Winston may still have available that piece of Evans, whose challis, particularly for neckwear, I agree, was industry standard.
I think I may say the same for the cloth made up in that unfortunate "bush" jacket; although perhaps personal inspection yielded a different tenor.
Nice to have a look in there though. Thanks!
Thank you for highlighting, Chipp and Paul Winston. There’s no truer keeper of the Ivy flame on the planet. I came late to the dance, not becoming a customer of the original Chipp until around 1972. I believe Chipp was begun by several Press salesmen, at least one of who would have been related to Paul. He literally grew up in the business, I doubt there is anyone who knows as many things about Ivy style and fabric.
Chipp’s take on Ivy was Ivy with humor. If you ever see a patch madras jacket, that would be Chipp’s innovation. And irrespective of your feeling about the same, trust that Chipp could pull the whole look together with the right accessories. Chipp sold nothing that was junk. In addition to the bespoke business, their entire small shop was chock full of high quality clothing from high quality fabrics, though sometimes made up in unique and unusual ways. And it all had style!
Along with death and taxes comes the certainty that anything less conservative than a charcoal pinstripe will have its critics.
I was a client of Chipp from early 70s through
the early 90s, both RTW, which they did at the time,
and MTM. Chipp offered merchandise that its'
more hidebound competitors shunned: like RTW natural shoulder jackets with side vents,off-white
silk tuxedo shirts, etc. I stopped using them about
the time they dropped RTW. MTM had always been problematic. Some garments came out perfectly,
but others involved major alterations or recutting. By then, I had moved to CA and no longer got to New York as much. It didn't seem to be worth
the trouble. Should my situation change, I will
definitely re-consider Winston Tailors. They
offer a distinctive take on the "Ivy League"
style.
Fascinating post.
There is something strangely compelling about that shetland safari jacket. I concede that one's intellect says "no" - on the not unreasonable basis that the garment is aesthetically (and perhaps morally) misguided.
But one's heart is swayed by the raffish charm of the thing. You'd have to have some front to carry it off - but if you could...
My good friend Dennis has gone to Winston Tailors for years and was always very pleased with the results (for made to order). I have great respect for trad firms like this, perhaps as much for what they represent historically as for (some, not all) of the selections.
MHampton
By the way when did David Evans close up shop? They were a GREAT silk business!
Evans has been gone for years and the patterns are now part of Vanners. The issue as I understand it is that the minimums for printing are now so large that it is not practical to hold large stoks of a pattern that will be used a half meter at a time.
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