Photo: Ferrari I don't know that I've ever thought about it this way before but there are two kinds of suits. The more common is the business suit, like the one Luca di Montezemolo wears in the photo to present Michael Schumacher's F2004 steering wheel to His Holiness. The business suit is inconspicuous so it can be worn frequently without drawing attention to the wearer's clothing.
The second, and to me more interesting type, is the considerably rarer suit that a man wears on less formal occasions or his own time, like the mustard linen suit Ed Hermann wore at last summer's Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance (just to stay with an automotive theme).
These two types may overlap (the classic example is the black and white flannel glen check), but the less formal versions are usually more at home at a sporting event than in the financial district. I think of them as pleasure suits. And whether a large check or a decidely unbusinesslike color, I find them more elegant than an odd jacket and trousers for most occasions.
The world would be a richer place if suit-wearing men had at least one, and preferably two or more, pleasure suits for each season.
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8 comments:
Will,
I like your thought here. I'm really struggling with having a suit suitable for summer temperatures but still at home in a business setting. Perhaps the pleasure suit could serve this summer function. I for one am trying to minimize my suitings to five. One for each day of the week (mon - thurs) and perhaps one pleasure for summer wear and fridays. If you had to pick only 5 suits, what would they be?
Five mid-weights? Gray pick and pick, navy twill, navy pin stripe, charcoal pin stripe, gray herringbone.
The color of the second gentleman's suit is fantastic. A natural shouldered suit in such a color would be excellent for the spring/summer.
Thank you much for your list.
A few clarifications:
-Is the Navy Twill a cotton or wool?
-What is pick and pick?
My current collection (I have about 6 that I don't like) includes a charcoal solid, navy pin strip, and black nailhead. I know what you say about black, but the nailhead (or birdseye) kind of mutes the color so it's not so stark. Of course I bought the darn thing before I started reading your blog so I didn't know any better!
Business suits are wool.
A pick and pick is like a sharkskin only not as prominent.
There's more about cloth at http://www.hollandandsherry.com/pages/apparel/textile_guide/textile_guide.htm
K-Dog,
Pick and pick means that every pick (yarn or thread inserted as weft) is of different color or yarn type. This was relevant in the days that fabric was woven in shuttle looms.
Will....excellent post as always. My clients (Big Pharma-Biotech-Medical Device-Diagnostics companies) don't require suits anymore. It's a shame but that's another post for another day.
So, I haven't had a suit made in 6 years...plenty of sport coats but no suits...just haven't needed 'em for work. However, I didn't know that I was making a "Pleasure Suit" but I just got mine from Flusser. Cavalry twill....the ulitmate durable travel cloth for me...bellows pockets-breast pocket flap. Great. Thanks for helping formalize/categorize it.
Will,
I agree with your thoughts on the pleasure suit. There is much more to be enjoyed in life than confining oneself to a business wardrobe.
I dress for myself, on my own terms, and in so doing my suits are about pleasure and have little to do with business. Afterall, it is not just an issue of style, but of lifestyle.
P.S. I noticed your blog description now includes "dressing with style" - bravo, as you have always represented such.
- Charles
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