The polo coat may have begun as a wrap coat but for me the quintessential version is double breasted, as worn by the man on the left of the Esquire illustration. Camel colored, with sleeve cuffs, patch pockets, a half belt and the show stopper: white mother of pearl buttons.
The gray flannel chalk stripe suit is icing on the cake.
Sunday, March 1, 2009
Polo Coat Detailing
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14 comments:
Is it de rigueur to wear the collar turned up? One of the characters in The Man Who Came To Dinner wore it turned up.
Years ago, I had a similar coat but it had a saddle shoulders. I think that is what it is called, no seams where the sleeves met the body of the coat. Great coat.
Will,
Who sells a coat with the kind of detailing you mention (obviously, MOP buttons can be purchased after-the-sale of the coat, if not available).
Thanks
Salvatore, I expect such elegance would require a tailor.
will-- is this a coat similar to the one you discussed/ pictured? Ben Silver may have other sizes available, but it is specially priced at $750 for a size 44reg right now:
http://www.bensilver.com/fs_storefront.asp?root=66&show=312&display=8950&group=1
Great coat Will. Ralph Lauren used to do a fairly faithful version of the original Polo coat ... complete with all the treatments you mention. They might still do so.
You are correct though. In order to get higher quality fabrics as well as quality workmanship...bespoke or MTM is the way to go.
Will, I'd love to hear from you a lengthy weigh-in on the closing gap between MTM and Bespoke price points. An additional arm to that treatise might be some commentary on the highest in "off the peg" clothing...ie Kiton, Brioni,Purple Label and the rationale for those investments vs. MTM or Bespoke.
I've been crazy about clothes for years and I'm fairly settled on where and how to spend my money. This has to be for many though, a mind boggling consideration.
Russ, that one looks pretty good.
White buttons would be a step too far towards the 'flash' on such a coat.......Understated style at all times!
The pockets that Flusser uses on his Polo coats are great. They are different than the ones from Brooks and other makers.
http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/1149DBcoatwalkingWeb.jpg
Enjoy your site and comments.
What do you think about this color for an overcoat.
Regards,
Jason
Jason, that color is usually called vicuna. It's about the shade of the black and brown herringbone overcoat cloth I am offering, which is one way to say that I like it.
The classic polo is quite distinctive. Given its iconic status, it does seem hard to find. I did buy one at Brooks Brothers at the day after Christmas sale in '07. It was of Loro Piana camel hair cloth and had all the features.
The film "Manhattan Melodrama" from 1934, starring Clark Gable and William Powell, features matching camel polo coats as a mainspring of the plot. I think when you see these suave screen icons in their polos, you'll want one for sure!
The welt seaming on the outside of the sleeve causes the coat to appear more informal. And, to my eye, adds to the heft of the style in this illustration. It is interesting that it appears to have four sets of buttons. This one is really meant for use in the weather.
I own a vintage model, but of current production, research would lead me to buy from J. Press -- all the right details, high quality... $1,350.00 at full retail. Less during regular sales.
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