It was a length of cloth in January and two months later almost to the day this 14 ounce (420 gram) Shetland herringbone tweed is taking shape as an odd jacket. Like the gun club Peter Harvey made before he became a brand within Davies & Son last year, this coat will be a little longer than normal two button with crescent pockets and a button point above the waist.
As jackets go it did not need much fixing but still demonstrated why a fitting is good practice any time clothing is made for an individual (and why the visiting Hong Kong tailor practice of doing without is less than ideal). In this case, even with a close to perfected pattern, the quarters (lower center front) need to be opened a little more.
Despite that minor modification, the jacket ought to be ready for pickup in June. The intervening months are just enough time to think about a necktie or two that will give it some pop in combination with a blue shirt. And since the plan is to wear it at least part of the time with gabardine trousers that complement the rust-colored overcheck, a complementary necktie could take more than the usual amount of thought.
Saturday, March 21, 2009
A Shetland Takes Form
Subscribe to:
Post Comments (Atom)
Posts
14 comments:
Very long in the body, is this a personal preference?
Looks as if it will be a beautiful jacket, though I must admit I’d find it more flattering without the higher button point.
I'm curious about the reason behind your decision to increase the length of this particular jacket.
I'll have to check how open the quarters are on your other jackets; this one looked about right to me.
Believe it will look lovely. I wear all my jackets long. I believe the current fashion of skin tight, short jackets look ridiculous. But everyone is entitled to their own view.
Can you provide a ballpark estimate of what a bespoke jacket or suit would cost?
It's a modified riding jacket and those are supposed to have a little more length.
Well, Will. I can understand the crescen pockets which do so automatically classify this as a sporting tweed. I like the color and the weight, understated in the extreme and to a great degree versatile, which is a good way to go for this unusual sporting piece. I love yo see a really good quality shetland made into an elegant odd jacket. Just one question though. Have you considered anything other than the conventional breast welt for the breast pocket?
Riding aside, I think the length is fine on this jacket. One must bear in mind that the length of the coat depends not just on the length of one's arms but on one's entire body: torso length and so on. Fred Astaire wore his jackets short but they were perfect for his particular frame, just enough to cover his rear. Will, you have always understood your proportions and what they require so it looks great! MHampton
...'pop'? et tu Will? Geez...
There is no 'pop'. You obviously meant a tie that brings out your eye color, or your skin tone, no?
However, I'm looking forward to seeing the completed work.
-CG
Very nice jacket, Will. Question: if one were starting from scratch and looking to build a wardrobe of odd jackets and trousers, what might you suggest as an approach?
Thanks,
Eric
Bob, more details might be too much on one jacket.
CG, OK, not pop but not nondescript either. :-)
Eric, see if http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2006/12/odd-jackets.html is a help.
Will, are you losing weight? Looking trim!
Just making fun of the word 'pop' and how, given enough time, we all fall for the use of weird terms that aren't otherwise in our vocabulary.
I rather like the gray tie with that combination, maybe a pink shirt instead of blue or white?
Hard to say CG but the current shirt looks pink in a small photo and the combination is weak to my eye.
I'll need to see the the coat with trousers that contrast, and I'll probably begin with neckties with a navy ground.
It is going to be most flattering. You can tell already.
Post a Comment