Photo: Robert TalbottThe display of a pocket square is perhaps the fussiest bit of a man's dress. Without periodic attention, squares have an annoying propensity to fall down into the pocket or balloon up out of it. And that does not do.
So what options are there? Well, the first is to recognize that all breast pockets lose their tension over time. The ways to compensate begin with squares made from heavier silk or linen as they will tend to move around less.
Size is important as well. An 18" (48 cm) silk square has the bulk to fill a properly sized pocket (not all pockets are the same size and if one is large enough to swallow an 18" square take the jacket to an alterations tailor to have the pocket shortened). 12" (30 cm) silk squares tend to disappear. The same holds for linen though 12" may suffice for less extravagant folds as linen's rougher surface tends to keep it in place better than silk.
The other major consideration is the fold itself. The Sam Hober web site has a useful guide to the various pocket square folds and one in particular warrants attention. The variations of the rolled puff leave the most bulk at the top of the pocket and that bulk helps keeps them in place over the course of a long day.
Careful attention to details will bring a man closer to what should be his goal. And that is, "stuff and forget."
So what options are there? Well, the first is to recognize that all breast pockets lose their tension over time. The ways to compensate begin with squares made from heavier silk or linen as they will tend to move around less.
Size is important as well. An 18" (48 cm) silk square has the bulk to fill a properly sized pocket (not all pockets are the same size and if one is large enough to swallow an 18" square take the jacket to an alterations tailor to have the pocket shortened). 12" (30 cm) silk squares tend to disappear. The same holds for linen though 12" may suffice for less extravagant folds as linen's rougher surface tends to keep it in place better than silk.
The other major consideration is the fold itself. The Sam Hober web site has a useful guide to the various pocket square folds and one in particular warrants attention. The variations of the rolled puff leave the most bulk at the top of the pocket and that bulk helps keeps them in place over the course of a long day.
Careful attention to details will bring a man closer to what should be his goal. And that is, "stuff and forget."
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5 comments:
Wouldn't it also help to make the breast pocket lining not of rayon lining, but of suiting fabric also? This would give a rougher surface to the pocket to hold the better.
Well, many breast pocket linings are cotton ticking so they do work better than a rayon lined pocket.
A trick I used to use with my off the peg suits was to have the clothier leave in one or two of the basting stiches that are customarily sewn in to close the pocket before wear. This is an easy way to make a slightly smaller pocket so that silk and fine cotton squares don't just
disappear instantly. Easy way to help the forgetting pocess.
I am glad you made this post because I was getting a bit frustrated with my pocket square slippage and had given up started staying with a flat pocket square fold. Now that I understand and have new websites for reference I am much happier.
Will,
Thank you very much for the response. I look forward to applying your suggestions.
theparody
One trick I've read about is having your tailor use printed silk for the pocket lining itself. You can pull it inside-out and use it as a built-in square, or push it in and insert your own.
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